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Check out DIY Charlie on YT, he has a couple of posts about insulating a solid wall, its an absolute minefield. In one, he comes back months after fitting insulated plasterboard and looks behind the cavity.....soaking wet. Even the government documents ive read regarding solid wall insulation (...

The foil sandwiched PIR would cost me around 90mm once finished, space is really at a premium. I'm guessing around the window reveal, you would just dot and dab the moisture resistant board ?

Thanks for the replies. From reading the approved document, the minimum acceptable sound proofing for both internal and party walls is the fitting of 2 x plasterboard. This idea of trying to turn 100 year old houses into newly built, just seems crazy to me, I mean, can you even do it on a...

One of the reasons for dropping the ceiling 100mm or so would be to fit a suitable extraction fan and easier light fitting. This would be done by an electrician.

Hi, Just wondering if anyone has practical experience of preventing condensation issues when fitting a bathroom. It's a semi detatched solid wall house and the room will have a brick party wall and internal stud/lath plaster walls ( originally a bedroom ). I have been reading the approved regs...

The room is a bathroom, well, shower. Just to give an idea of the slope, the highest point is at corner of room ( back wall/gable end) and the joists run front to back of house. This highest joist drops around 23mm over 3m. If you go diagonal across the room, ( around 3.6m ), then the drop...

I splashed out on a table saw, I can have any thickness I need now :giggle:, its all about whether I need Level or just flat. The slope is so consistent, , its like it was built that way, or maybe it has moved over the years like all houses do.

Thanks for the replies guys. I've got the joists ready to sister, just need to set position and secure, but here's my dilema, do I set the sisters LEVEL or FLAT ? If I set them level, there would be a step-up into the room from the landing and every other room on the first floor. With a laser...

I didn't think you screwed into the edge of the plywood, I thought you just used a longer fixing into the joist and pulled the floor sheet to the plywood edge ? The one thing I notice about the joists in the pic above.....they look nice and square and the chipboard is fixed snug against them...

That would make things easier. When I come to screw the floor ply to the joist, I take it I just use a longer screw and not worry about trying to fill the gap around the screw ?

What would yousay is the minimum size wood I could use to sister them ? Does it have to be the same size as the joist about 170mm x 50mm ?

Hi, The joists are spaced at around 320 mm some closer, there's only 7 in total. To sister them would be pretty difficult, some are close together and there's cables and lateral ties to back wall. I thought about packing, maybe using plywood blocks ( around 5mm plywood ), obviously the the...

Hi, Just wondering if anyone can advise on an issue I'm having trying to fit a bathroom floor. My original intention was to fit 18mm cement boards, direct to the joist and go with Laminate on top but after having spoke to the manufacturer, they have advised that the boards need to be laid on a...

Thanks for replys, Yes, was gonna tile up to half way height around room, then either plastic panelling or just water proof bathroom paint. Never gave any thought to the wall being flexible, that would obviously be a big no no.

Hi, I've been reading through older posts and it seems quite a contenious issue. I'm doing a bathroom install in a solid brick semi detatched . The room has party wall which is simply plastered ( originally a bedroom ) and stud walling to bedrooms. My only goal is to provide some sound...

As far I know it's illegal to connect to a water meter. If you do make sure you leave no leaks and the flag goes back level or there could be trouble. Most water companies offer a grant and free connection to upgrade from lead as they're desperate to get rid of lead pipework. Only caveat is that...

Surely brick is fire retardant anyway. If you have a lot of drilling to do and are concerned, i wouldn't be....you can get a online asbestos test for 20 quid

It's a snib function for the latch. If you want to nip out and not have door close behind you, just draw latch back and slide up to hold it. if your outside handle operates the latch, it's redundant but some doors need key to open from outside

I don't think there's that much difference between them for the average residential user, a good mortice deadlock is all that's required. Only ever seen a couple of break-ins were a lock was suspected to have been picked. Banham are a London thing, Ingersoll make some wicked 10 lever cylinder...

Village Salvage in Waynesville, Ohio. These guys refurbish antique mortise locks and I'm sure if you sent a pic they'd point you in the right direction, I think it may go on one of those posts in the last pic and connect the lever gate to the linkage arm to retract the latch ( in this case it...