Search results

That mostly doesn't matter Internal wiring is sized to load

Agree with all above if you're fitting inline get a good powerful fan with overrun Ducting pulled tight not just fired up like a snake

What's the heat and flow going to be like on that It's only 6.9 kw at 230v

Trump would stop the boats "in a day" He actually would too

I think most domestic are “straight to busbar now “ Better job

I said surface led with space not ceiling rose Anyway either method is acceptable and it’s a difference of opinion In this particular case its 3-plate with branches It’s simpler to troubleshoot or disconnect a fault on a branch there when it’s readily accessible rather than looking for joints

A layer of silicone across the top is ok imo, stop water running down the back Not all around as the back dissipates heat, probably a warranty fail anyhow Installer said the Mira can be damaged as a result Don’t know about Triton they’re generally superior to Mira im told

Seems simple to connect but lots of mistakes are made Type of things you see with plumbers and diy - cpc probably not doubled back - stranded live conducters twisted and inserted - timebomb with connections not adequately tightened

Longtime spark and i wouldn’t generally go that way although nothing wrong with it Creating hard to access joins Simpler testing or troubleshooting when all terminating is done at “points “

Anyway globe or ceiling rose is not the way to go As said above a surface led fitting with plenty of space inside to tidy wiring

CPC not fully sleeved As above get spark to check , tightness . fault loop etc

Sounds like a connection issue

Steinel do a 3yr warranty anyway fwiw Repair of smartphones and washers etc. i can understand , but led floodlights, no.

Sorry there I was giving instructions but think maybe that's not allowed in UK to DIY it , so edited

That is a rats nest of wires there

That’s not silly Isolating supply for maintenance

The issue with it would be troubleshooting , in theory It’s better to be able to operate the fan controls with the fan isolator off and check supplies there at incoming side So would be bad practice anyhow

The fan isolator is also isolating the control switch There’s no reason to do that but it will operate as normal

I always stick to separates whenever possible Be it hi-fi , test equipment , whatever

There’s also single - point contact testing which can be useful but doesn’t prove anything My cheap martindale tester has it Non contact testers are great but need practice