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Thanks noseall I've not used that before, does it work ok for ceilings? I imagine a good number of support batons needed to hole sheets in place for a while.

Hi, about 15 years ago I moved into an old stone cottage with a concrete extension. There was no insulation, I was working on the whole house so had to stretch my budget and only put int 25mm insulation backed plasterboard on all the external walls and ceilings, along with some loft insulation...

Thank Nuzuki, I think a you're right that a bit of steel mesh is best to go in - I plan for a bit of A252 mesh across the whole slab. Good mention about the DPM too. Cheers

Thanks Notch7. Yes, what I was trying to describe was to dig the foundation trench, shutter up where the ground dips down, pour trench foundations and pads, take out top soil from oversite area, put in type 1 and then pour slab. Thanks

Evening all I'm currently planning to build a metal clad and framed garage/workshop/storage shed at the back of my property. It's on a sloping site, there is about 50cm height difference between two diagonally opposite corners. The access is at the high point of the site, so the rest of the...

Anyone any ideas? Thanks Conor

Hello I have a leak coming in around the windows in my bay window. This part of the house was built about 50/60 years ago using poured concrete. I have identified the location of the leak to be penetrating through the concrete where it is thin at the point that the windows butt up against it...

If you open your drivers door you will find that there is a bit of plastic at about half way up the door frame that sticks out. If you push it in the van will think that the door is closed, when it is out the van thinks the door is open. These are located on all doors, on the bonnet and...

One thing to look out for is the sensors on the doors that detect if they are closed or open. On my trafic the drivers door sensor does not get fully depressed all the time when the door is closed and so it will sometimes set the alarm off randomly. I have 'fixed' the problem by attaching a pad...

Cheers for all the thoughts The heaters are staying, so no problems in regard to increasing heater size. I couldn't see a problem with it, but thought I'd ask in case there was so I've no plan to get it changed to a ring or split them to different mcbs. Thanks Conor

Ok, cheers guys. Just hadn't seen it before so thought I'd ask. Yep, each heater has a fused switch. Thanks Conor

Hello all I've just been looking at my heating circuits (I have all electric heating with storage and panel heaters), and I've noticed that I have 3 panel heaters running from the same mcb. They're not in a radial or ring circuit - each heater has it's own 2.5t+e coming from the same mcb...

Morning Chances are that it is just one of the door sensors. On my trafic the drivers door sensor is the one at fault, it could do with being a bit longer so that it engages and always thinks that the door is shut. Sometimes it was happy that the door was shut and then at other times it...

Afternoon all My house has a pebble dash style render over it all and it has had plenty of coats of paint in the past. In a lot of areas paint layers are flaking off. I plan to remove the paint and repaint the place. I have started in one area to remove paint with a wire brush. I'm...

Ah, yes, guess I missed out mentioning that since the CU is a about 6m from meter there is a little CU with 100A double pole switches in. This is fed with double insulated cables from meter. I can't think what size the cables are, but I've a feeling they're only 16mm² and so no point in using...

Hello all I've currently got 16mm² t+e feeding the CU that does my sockets and lights. I'm guessing this isn't very good, am I correct? Should I get it replaced with 16mm² double insulated and a 10mm² earth? Or is 25mm² generally the standard? It's an old wylex board with fuse wire, so...