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That link isnt working for me. Surprisingly though I am quite familiar with ITW's spacejoists. The only details in their technical guides are for perimeter/partition details. They are noggins, although not for stopping the twist. :D

I cant comment on the detailing part, as i only design roofs/floors. But from a roof perspective, I know I could quite easily design a flat topped roof that would be very simple to fit on site. The only cut in work would be the loose rafters/ceiling joists on the hip corners. Maybe a little...

Noggins are not a requirement for I-beams or any engineered joist. Nor is any form of herringbone strutting. That's from my experience as a I-beam/open web joist & Roof designer.

From a build perspective, a flat roof section wouldnt be that difficult if the roof was designed in trusses. Mono Flat tops running into the existing with a little make up on the hips etc. Fairly simple in all honesty, the only difficult part would be getting the planes to match through...

I cant see any problems with air tightness with a raised tie truss. You wouldnt see any physical evidence of movement in the roof even with it fully tiled. The roof could move over time, ie after a large snowfall, however it would be minimal that there would be no obvious signs. Certainly none...

The use of Glide shoes on a raised tie roof truss is basically to stop the truss pushing your walls outwards. The glide shoes them selves are a 2-shoe, the shoe part is fixed down to the wallplate and then a metal plate is fixed to a horizontal cut in the truss and the truss the sits into...

LOL @Freddy... I guess I will add a little to this then :D The usefulness of a loft conversion all depends on how badly you need it. For example, if you are just after utilising the large open space in there and decide to throw some money at it to convert it properly (i.e BR) then...

Actually no they are web braces, usually only a requirement on spans over 8mts. There is no other place for them except where they are now. The rafter diagonal brace runs at roughly 45 degree from wallplate up to underside of ridge and one of the purposes is to stop the lot from falling...

Yes, we have specified this several times for both floors and roof applications. The minimum wrap over is 45mm for drop hung applications so wrapping the hanger around the timber in the web is more than adequate. This when fully nailed would ensure the hangers is at full capacity rather than the...

If your fixing a timber to the top of the RSJ just so you get adequate fixing for the hanger, then why not just wrap the hanger around the timber going into the web of the steel ? Making the whole process far easier

A gable end would be easy to design in roof trusses solving the issue of tying in the rafters/ceiling joists to the new gable, by using a girder truss running parallel with the splayed wall. A hipped extension or a raise ceiling would throw a few complications into th e mix though... As for...

One option would be to use SFHW hangers from simpsons that require NO masonry above. Thats presuming im understanding you correctly. The new ceiling joists at the back of the house are sitting on a wallplate on the back wall and span onto the mid span wall, but is only 8" higher not...

If the conversion is an old roof where there have been horizontal collars supporting the purlins which then need to be removed. The purlins are then given support by building a structural stud wall off the floor. I guess it depends on how it is designed and weather new purlins are specified...

I agree never usually an issue with a domestic floor. Although a loft conversion can mean putting extra loads onto the floor close to the eaves. If the purlins supporting the roof are to supported through a structural stud wall built off the floor. Usually the will be close to the eaves...

That would depend on what pitch the roof is on how much a chamfer would be needed to be taken off joist. The joist would want to shear off at the wallplate so the internal wall would really play any part in stopping that. You can get Enginered Joists the can be manufactured with the...

The pocket would have to be a full 100mm so the beam has a full bearing. A series of holes and then chiseling out would be fine, as would angle grinding then chiseling. The SFWH will work with some blockwork above, however I appreciate they are not the easiest to get in wtihout a lot of...

I would say the best method would be to make a pocket in the blockwork for the beam to sit into. Std masonry hangers need 675mm of blockwork above for it to work properly. You could use SFHW hangers from Simpson Strong Tie, they require no blockwork above. Simpsons have a really good...

If the conversion is to be done to building regs, Permitted Development etc, then both flights of stairs must be seperate to any rooms, providing a secure escape route out of the house in case of a fire. What is the layout to your ground floor ? Do your stairs exit into a hallway or direct...

Another way to do it, would be to wrap the hanger over the timber that will pack out the steel. This should give you a little extra for the drop. You will need full depth blocking between the joists to provide lateral restraint to the joist, as the hanger flange will be less than 3/4 of the...

Well actually its SDS screws apologies typo, but yes here is one example http://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/type.php?typeID=45&familyID=2 Check standard and SDS installation They are also currently testing the HIUB with SDS installation for increased capacity (around 11kn I believe).