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Unless the hanger has the ability to be used with SDW screws or Ledgerlok screws then the hanger capacity is greatly increased. Standard wood screws agreeed, there is no real benefit in performance. :D

Which hangers are you refering to ? Hangers to an existing wall is standard practice. What is wrong with sitting the flat roof joists onto the blockwork on the outerleaf wall ? Far better detail. Why would you want to use a hanger on the outer wall ? In my 15 years, Ive never once...

How do you know that the 'wood' isnt acting as a prop for the purlins supporting your roof ? Or that your attic roof is actually attic trusses and the false walls are actually a structural element ? Do you know how your roof was constructed ? IE Traditional loose cut roof, with rafters...

The beam could be position within the floor void, so you are not loosing so much headroom. The joists then can be supported in top hung hangers off the steel beam.

I agree it is more of a personal choice. I will specify both, dependant on the situation. I was intrigued as to why others would say its 'good design practice' to sit a joist in a hanger ?

Again, why is that good design practice ?

Bumping this as I'm interested in hearing your view as well woody

Thats my point, both an engineered I joist or traditional joist is going to suffer bounce or flex with a clear span of 7mts. And to source a traditional joist to span 7mts is going to be difficult and costly ! Its not scaremongering to offer advice based on ones own professional...

Based on a 6mt span, you would have to put in minimum 300mm deep I-joists. Even at that, I wouldnt recomend it, you are going to get spring in the floor once all the furniture is up there. What is the actual dimensions of your extension ? Can the span not be turned around the other way ...

If your struggling on height then maybe look at engineered open web joists, there are a number of end details which can be used that will still have the joist sitting on the blockwork rather than a beam/ledger. Yes they are a little more costly, but you should be able to go down to 8" on...

The apron is for asthetic purposes only. Usually on cantilever joists, there is a closing joist running perpendicular to the joists (like a header joist or landing trimmer) but does not take support off the 2 trimmers. Commonly refered to as a cantilvere closure, which is what has been done...

LOL who on earth quoted you that ? Any metal web manufacturer will prefer to see plans rather than attempt to give a per meter rate on the product (probably explains the price you've been given). Usually when people ask for a per meter price they are comparing it to traditional timber...

They are more than a traditional joist, on per metre basis but you need to acess the rest of the cost involved. They also span further and will give you a stiffer floor. They are minimum 72mm wide so a better fixing for flooring and plasterboarding. Also any plumbing or electrical...

Forgot to mention they would be 202mm deep too.

Or rather than using traditional joists, why not look at engineered joists ? Open web joists will span that easily @ 400mm centers. And will give you a stiffer feeling floor.

If your looking at fitting a resilient bar onto your joists, then have a look at these http://www.proctorgroup.com/products/acoustic-solutions/profloor-dynamic-batten These are designed to reduce impact sound but the do add an extra 50-80mm to you floor. Although I have to agree with...

Basically the orange timbers are supporting the beams which span your full roof. The only way to remove them is to fit new sized up purlins which will support your roof independantly OR finding a way to support the existing purlins. Glulam or steel will more than probably be needed.

So its a fink truss and not a attic truss ? As long as the node point doesnt fall over where the block wall lands it wouldnt of been used as a support. And certainly not for 2 trusses. Besides all of that, 6.1mt span is nothing for a fink pattern truss.

Im not going to get into a debate, the OP asked for advice on which to be used.

I think the same can be said for Plywood, I can think of no advantage to the householder that cant be said about chipboard. If you are worried about damp ingress when using chipboard, use a protect style chipboard with D4 adhesive.