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Well since you have a structural stud wall supporting the 2 flitch beams and the joists are doubled around the main trimming area around the stairs, the overall joist spec looks fine as it is now. Id be looking to see if any more of the stud walls below can be used to help strengthen the...

+1, most of the details i send out are commonly like this detail. Structural grade plywood min 9mm usually glued,screwed and fitted over the area you wish to drill and around 500mm eitherside of the area. The thickness of ply really depends on what the problem is.

For a light storage area, it should be ok so long as what ever you plan store up there is spread evenly across the area and not all piled up in a few areas. Also that it is 'the usual rubbish' and not someones old antique oak desk etc. Also keep in mind the position of the loadbearing...

Its not advisable and certainly not by any free to use engineering programme, but it may not be completely out of the question. The best advice I can give you is to try and find out who manufactured the roof trusses. Taking into account the fact they are 26 years old, finding the actual...

If your looking to put a future dormer in, then putting new purlins in at the upper ceiling level (i.e at the new dormer ceiling height) this would stop the spreading of the rafters when you take out the old ceiling joists. Although if there is already an existing room up there, then the...

Looking by them pics, it looks like that was an old attic style room from an older part to the house. Is there any signs of newer brickwork ? Mainly from the are were the rafters slope over the old window ? Steel beam boxed out perhaps ?

When you mention about the stud walls and the existing ceiling joist already being 150mm deep sounds like somebody has already thought of creating 'extra space' up there. 63 x 150mm (2" 1/2 x 6") at 4.2mts (metric 14') is not adequate for a domestic floor load, it could be suffice for what...

Joist hangers can be used, but you need to use Safety fast hangers (Simpson Strong Tie) or Rapid build (ITW Cullen) hangers. These are designed to work with no blockwork/brickwork above. Normal masonry hangers require 675mm of cured blockwork above to work. There is also the return style...

They can be bought in lengths over 13mts, but span wise will only clear 7.2mts (ish). FloorTrus (or similar) would be the way to go, there is no limit to depth in design only in manufacture. Thats if you want timber components And its available in the US

I'd have a look at ITW Alpine's website(s), they are huge over in the US http://www.itwbcg.com/ http://www.alpeng.com/ Both of them are from the same group Illinois Tool Works. They are over in the UK, but no where near the size as in the US. They should be able to direct you in...

Nope, this is not true. Unless you have the proper Plant machinery to manufacture these, no-one would sell you the webs. Its against the licensing agreement they will have with the manufacturers of the webs. As for noise transmission with stud walls, soundproof quilting along with...

LOL that has to be one of the best fitted roof lights Ive seen !!! Is the window opening square inside the roof ? Or has the plastering followed the same line of the opening ? If that hasn't leaked, its more than probably it would leak. The flashing at the bottom is poorly fitted...

Either way if its joists or rafters both need to be supported at both ends of the new peice. Either over a purlin (if rafter) or over a supporting wall (if ceiling joist) Although some do fix with a 'scab' timber either side of the damaged timber with it screwed/nailed to the existing...

You wouldn't be able to just remove the diagonal post (purlin post) or the collar (horizontal timber) and build a frame vertically down onto the ceiling, due to the fact you would be transfering the roof load to your ceiling. Your ceiling will probably not be strong enough to take any roof...