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Nope it is an electrical switch , it doesnt know what is at the other end

sent you a PM click on the envelope at the top RH of the page

yes that is definately your issue

Well if you mean that drawn diagram, you have both browns from A1 and A2 joined together which is completely wrong

You will see many posts saying to link L&1 DO NOT do this, wire exactly as @stem advised above

post a pic of the wiring inside the wiring centre

well it should be hot, you turn the valve anti-clockwise to open, use a small adjustable spanner and turn it clockwise all the way in then turn it , back out again, they sometimes snap inside and need replaced, you eill know as you do it if it feels like it is actually closing and opening

OK on your final pic, below the pump and slightly to the right that gate valve is your by-pass valve, with the boiler hot turn off both CH & HW and feeel that pipe is it staying hot ? it should that is how the pump over run facility dissipated the residual heat from the boiler when both zone...

AGAIN DID YOU CLOSE THE BY-PASS MISTAKENLY WHEN DRAINING

check that the bypass is open

Most common cause of this is a gas grill, but as others have said stop using it and get it checked

As @mattylad says pics are best and make and model of the boiler will get you the best advice

small differences like that are normal, do not use leak sealer ever ,modern boilers hate it and it will cause more problems than it will fix

and you wonder why your post is confusing, it cant be both

You have a mid position valve so there must be a wire in the HW OFF terminal or it wont work correctly

can you post a pic of the wiring both at the nest end and the boiler end

make sure both filling valves are properly closed

Your best bet is to get a Worcester fixed price repair, excellent value for money and you will get a warranty

Ask the gas safe registered engineer that is installing it

just open a radiator bleed valve and release some water into a container until the pressure drops