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Perhaps, and that might also require a new neutral bar, and there may not be enough space inside for that, and it all depends on what's been done there already. Even if it was possible, it's still leaves most of the loads on a single RCD including the 'shed' which presumably is outside. The...

More like speculative propaganda.

Unfortunately whoever installed that provided the worst option possible from one of the cheapest manufacturers. Zero possibility of adding anything to that and it's questionable whether it even complies as it is. No.

No. Other than a few minor variations, they are the same today as they have been for decades. Nothing was inspected or tested, and the new CU should not have been energised.

Hardly. Other sources of generation exist such as nuclear and gas.

What wiring is at the outside light, and what does the label on the black wire say?

A smoke alarm is not a substitute for a protected escape route.

No, B is already electrically connected to A if it's metal, and if it were plastic there would be nothing to connect any bonding to.

That is what needs bonding, after the stopcock and before any junction.

Probably RGBW, so that multiple colours can be selected, and it's set to 'white' which is all of the colours plus the white one.

Dehumidifying.

Not needed at all unless you or others intend to use a phone, tablet, computer, laptop, security camera, smart speaker, television, smart lighting or most other modern devices at the location.

Warm white equivalent to halogens would be 2700K such as these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-gu10-led-light-bulb-345lm-3-6w-5-pack/397pp Dimmer won't make any difference to the colour but it will need to be suitable for LEDs, plenty of old dimmers are not.

There is no Exchange and Mart paper, it ceased publication many years ago.

Looks like something thrown together from parts with no consideration as to how the whole assembly is supposed to comply with any known standards. Where do they intend the LED power supply to be mounted? That along with the wiring should be inside another enclosure.

More likely it's a capacitor, and that is what has failed/is failing.

Do you actually want advice and options, or is this another of those affairs where someone has mindlessly decided on some course of action, excluded all other possible choices and just wants others to confirm their plans are cool and normal? How old? If 'very' then what makes you believe that...

You are replying to someone else's discussion which ended 13 years ago. If you have a query, make a new thread with it. Otherwise it will just be confusing as the previous replies are totally unrelated and the person who made that enquiry hasn't been here since then.

That cannot be correct. A 10cm² hole is tiny - approximately the same size as a waste pipe from a kitchen sink. Such a thin section will be of no use, as a slot a few mm wide will very quickly be blocked with dirt and provide no ventilation at all.

They are wrong. It would, as that 9.5kW shower is 40A, which is a lot more than 32A. No instruction book can possibly know how the cable is installed, so that should be ignored.