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i will give that a try ,, at the moment i have wedged two cold chisels between the mixer and the drum and its not moved

been given a belle mini mix 130 cement mixer the drum is sliping due to worn teeth but i can not get the drum off ,,on this model it looks like it pulls off and not screwd off but i can not find any thing about removel ,,,, any one done one

my two daughters have asked to have there own space,, at present i have a old garage which will be demolised rebuilt with a self contained apartment above it, the garage below is needed by me ,, the space i have external is 3.2m wide by 8.6m long it will need a stair case from the garage below...

hi dane chip ive fitted all the worktops now and there spot on no filler or glue needed ,,, its just that i dont often use a router,, as im a plumber,,, my reason i ask about the jig is that i may need to use it in the future,,,,, i would say the oak was in my oppinion was better than laminate

no i have never used it,,, my new worktops are oak and i have used only the part were you route for the bolts to pull the tops together,,, these are fine as they measure 32mm and thinking about it may be correct ?? i was given this jig some years ago and do not know its age or history,, but it...

i do see the point of the guide having say .5 mm clearence but 7mm is way to big,,, may be that it has been modified? if it has its been done its been done profesionaly and for a reason,,, and why two differant sizes,,, i have veiwed utube but they seem to show the guide being a perfect fit to...

ive been doing some kitchen work tops for my self ,, the work top jig i have is a trend 650 combi jig,,,,,, as my router had a 30mm guide fitted,, i found this did not fit ,, i measured the trend jig and it needs a 37mm guide for the male and femail joints and a 32mm guide for the jointing bolt...

dave can you explain what i do to check its parralle,,,,, what i did was to screw a baton to the under side and run the saw along ,, im a plumber not a joiner so i welcome any advice,,,,, i do think that it was some how sticking or binding

the saw i used was a circular saw i do have a bench saw but as you know the weight of a 3mt x 950mm oak top comes in at 80 KILO,,,,, so i used a guide with the circular ,,,,, thinking about it,,,, im thinking the blade may have been binding or the blade not as sharp as i thought hence the burn...

yesterday i cut my new oak worktop 950mm x 3mt ,,, the saw i have is a skill saw 180 mm blade it says its 1 3/4 horse power ive had it 20 years it never fails to cut exteria doors etc ,,, the blade looked good and i think its had liitle use,,, i leveled the worktop and started to cut it...

yes thay were hard to see i have now fitted the doors paying particular attension to the weep holes,,, im now deciding whats best for sealing them,,, the gap is 10mm to brick,,, im trying to avoid foam,, unless im told differant

ive seen a lott of reports of problems,, where sliding patio doors leak back into the building.. some seem to be blocked weep holes,,,, but others seem to point to bad instalation,,, i have plenty of time to fix mine so id like to know where to put weep holes... my doors sit on a sill which as...

my patio doors will soon be arriving,, so in advance id like to ask ,, is there a recomended distance that they must be fixed,, the opening is 11 inch made of brick and block with a cavity,,, can they be flush with the outside brick work ?? or is it advisable they be set back ??if so any advice

my reason for asking is ive had prices as high as £1900 andits difficult to see how,, the diferance is so large,,, if the products are simler

need some sliding patio doors for my new extension size is 2400w x 2.100 h the price seems to vary a lott i've found a co on the net,, which as quoted £640 plus 80 delivery,,,,this is what they have Synseal Legend 70mm Fully Sculpted Multi-Chambered uPVC Profiles Virgin White uPVC...

my reason for asking is when i looked at these slabs i asked could i have a sample which was put on a machine which had at 4 foot diameter blade and it was slow to cut,,,, im thinking i may need to cut about 30 or more of these,,, slabs will a decent blade cut 30 plus ?

not strickly tiling but looks the best place to post ,, im laying a new pattio around 40 / 50 sq mts ive seen some 600x 300 granit slabs they are approx 30mm thick,,, what i would like to know is how difficult these would be to cut,i have a tile saw but expect that this would not be up to the...

my reason for batoning out is the new slab when poured is 10 to 15 mm high or low spots in places,, so battoning seems the best bet ,,

need to bring a new floor up to the level of an exsting floor,, its a new extension and the new floor slab is approx 80mm lower then the existing,,, the new slab is insulated and as dpc which as been passed off by building controll,,, what i would like to do is put down 3x2 on a bed of sand...

just tryed a few lenths of 3x2 it looks reasonably level if i lay a bed of sand and cement under under the 3x2 i can easily get it level,,then screw the flooring to the 3x2,,, is this an exceptable way of laying this floor ,,, would it be ok for building control ?