Search results

Any Matt emulsion would be fine to use, if you have rolled the wall then use a roller to go over the filler with, I would advise to give the whole wall one coat as well.

I always advise using a good trade Matt emulsion, far less problems to be had. Doesn't show up imperfections as much as silk does. If there is silk on the wall at the moment and you decide to put Matt on then you will need to sand the wall first.

Ideally you wouldn't paint satinwood on top of emulsion. Before starting you should decide if you will be keeping the cladding for a number of years or is it just a quick fix until you do any refurb.

Do they have to all be painted in one go?

Thinned Matt emulsion for the first coat would be sufficient. Then 2 coats of neat emulsion.

less coats equals less labour costs. That's what I was taught anyway.

Crown non drip satin covers well. The dulux satinwood does give a nice finish but will require 2 coats. What is on the door at the moment?

Hardwall dries in 2 hours and can be applied thicker than easifill

They say 1-3 days to be fully hardened so would say it would be fine after that. The best thing you could do would be to do a test area and see what the finish is like.

If they are wide and deep then hardwall is the stuff to use or bonding if you have time for it to dry

My advice would be to leave it a week to cure then do a scratch test with your finger nail, if it comes away then give it a good sand then undercoat and gloss.

Forgot to add don't forget to put a mist coat on the bare plaster first before painting, about 70% Matt emulsion 30% water

Hi you can use the caulk in corners and along door frames and skirting etc but anything that's not an edge then use filler. As for your roof then I'm afraid you should have got a roofer to tile it really lol :D (I take it you mean ceiling) wouldn't bother about trying to use tape, if it doesn't...

Would also be an idea to check any near by pipe work for leaks and check there is no sign of water getting in from outside.

Have you scrapped any away? Looks like it could be hydroscopic salt which has come from the plaster. Scrape away and sand down the affected areas to good clean plaster then wash 3 times over 10 days with a water and vinegar solution about 3:1 ratio

You could try carefully scrapping them off, nothing without risk of damage I'm afraid.

When I did my lawn I just raked it off the top and never had moss come back after 2 years, not much help on the scarifier setting I'm afraid. Only have a small garden and remember having a fairly big pile which the birds kindly removed for me for nesting.

I'm guessing the sleepers are just pushed up flush with the patio, you may get the odd one or two fall out of place but certainly won't cause you a problem. Once the replacements are in then re bed the bricks. how long have they been there for? Since 2003 they have been banned from sale.

Open up the crack a little then fill. Once dry you can then sand it smooth, if it doesn't appear level then use a wide filling knife working the filler along the length of the crack giving you a feathered edge let dry then sand smooth. It will give the appearance of one level, I would also...

If there is enough of a head on the screw then try a pair of pliers. If not then drill it out.