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Oil based primer?

You can remove the loose and clean the salt off with white vinegar, I would repeatedly clean for a few days, then make good with filler and or plaster depending on the damage. If you haven't already done so then get the cause of the problem sorted first or all the effort could well be a waste...

If it was to go wrong then the new paint wouldn't be the cause of the problem, use a breathable paint to be certain moisture won't get trapped in, that's all you can do for now then its a case of wait and see really.

Second that, think its about 50p difference at b&q

Its always tough to recommend a brush as its all about preference, I would say spend the most you can afford. Like misterhelpful I to prefer to use natural bristle with oil based and cut the shape of.the brush to my needs, but for water based a synthetic brush is a must, I have recently got...

I would give it all a wash down with sugar soap, and you may need to stain block aswell if there's bad stains but if you give the ceiling and walls a coat or two of white (use contract matt) then you should be able to see any problem stains. As for the woodwork, sand smooth wash down then...

Very true, and that's pretty much what I use it for, framing and small fun projects as a hobby.

I understand what your saying and pretty much everything I do is on a router table so don't encounter that problem, just instantly lost a few mm depth because of the mounting plate. If you find that a smaller router will be sufficient then go for it, I wouldn't mind owning a small palm router...

Just a bit of advise, think carefully about the collet size as I went for a router with 1/4 inch and 8mm collets and now wish I had just spent the extra for the 1/2 inch model. Obviously depends on what work your doing with it.

As above it can take a while to fully cure, also if you have got gloss on the wall then give that gloss a light sanding before applying your emulsion, if you do get emulsion on the glossed work then simply wipe it off with a damp cloth and try again.

Probably better off doing a skim fill.

I would wait for the exterior of the wall to be finished and see what you have to deal with after its all dried out, it shouldn't be a massive problem to sort out. Im afraid its bad judgement by your painter really as they should have advised not to go ahead yet.

I have a kitchen without an extractor (well I say without, the council put one in but not above the cooker so don't do jack) and when cooking on high heats I do have to open the door or a window.

Its on an external wall? Don't know about the cost but would be an easy task, could go straight outside behind the chimney. As stated above check it actually needs one first.

Always a tough situation to be in but if your really that unhappy and don't mind putting in the extra hours then go for it. I'm sure you would pick it up quick, I'm a painter and decorator as well and have found that any finishing job I have learnt has come pretty natural to me.

Yes worse case, take back to bare. Thankfully its only the new that would be affected, to be honest you would probably notice blistering at this stage but it does look like the moisture is making its way out.

It may not dry to be an even colour but fingers crossed it don't start to peel or blister.

Do you know what paint was used? Clearly the plaster underneath was not dry but could well be OK if a breathable paint was used.

A couple of vents could be helpful, opposite ends of the garage so there's a constant airflow, wouldn't think an extractor would be to benificial.

How about a simple clear spray lacquer? I find it enhances the grain in pretty much all woods.