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Get them to put the downpipe at the end of the building.

Best way to attach the braces? The left side I'll drill a hole in the hip tile and stick a packer under and screw through into the rafter. The right hand one should be about 1/3 down from the ridge. Brackets are just little angled things to screw in and instructions are useless.

Knock off some more plaster - if you've already got to the top of the lintel in that picture it ain't supporting a floor in a block of flats. If it's deeper get rid of the coving and see what's going on at the top. I can't see why anyone would sit a 6 feet section of concrete floor on top of a...

We finally have enough radiators in our house (after extension/renovation relying on just a few in the wrong places running at full tilt to keep the house fairly warm) to maintain a nice temperature. What should the boiler be set at? We have a megaflo so I presume there's a minimum (flow...

Thanks. I've got the nosing and the board fits nicely with a bit of underlay scraped off. A few more questions if I may? Do I need expansion gaps at the ends? The stairs are 750mm wide. And what can I do with the bullnose? I think just square it up with a 45° chamfer.

I've sorted it. I had a cunning plan that the bit that goes into the box that I could see had some spec or something faintly printed on it, and it appeared to only be on one of the strands so I just needed to find the same on the bit chased down the door frame. I gave it a bit too much of an...

While fitting the radiator on the right I've drilled through one half of the shotgun cable. I've ordered a repair kit (4 f plugs, 2 barrels and a few m of cable) which will allow me to replace from where I've accessed the cable back to the TV (which lives on the other side of the wall). I'm...

It's moduleo layred click, 6mm with underlay so I'd remove the UL where it fits in or on the nosing. The reason I favour the first one is because the stuff is big tiles (so one per step) rather than planks - so if I used the second type which I guess is designed for click, I don't think I would...

Out of these 2 which would be best? I prefer the first one for a few reasons, but I'm worried that there's nothing restraining the edge - so would the right adhesive glue it down forever?

Over that area, the cheapest no nails will be fine - when used to stick skirting boards on it often brings the plaster off when they're removed. I find it a bit softer than the polymer stuff so easier to squish into place, and to clean up.

I'm not suggesting a step near the stairs, I'm suggesting 22mm chipboard on the landing including the part forming the top step with a new nosing. In theory there should be no variation in stair riser height but in practice (most common at the bottom of a staircase when a floor has been...

I have the same, there's some little lugs somewhere - just lever the inner bit out from the bottom with a chisel or flat screwdriver.

You'll get away with 22mm chipboard on the landing without people falling down the stairs so that's a big improvement. Ask on the flooring forum for what self leveling product you'd need to do 0 to 22mm on timber.

I haven't bought any for a while but I don't recall box section metal sheets being that expensive and you can usually pick up small quantities on eBay/marketplace.

Keeps everything lined up, especially if you want your noggins to be in a line rather than up and down. Also most screws are threaded most of their length so a pilot hole allows the screw to pull the two bits of wood together. The neater the frame is the less like the plasterboard is to crack.

It depends to a large extent how good (flat) the wall is -plastering works in degrees of flatness. A skim coat (of proroll or skimming plaster) is in the low mm"s thick, an under coat of say bonding plaster or render would go on say 10mm thick to even out the wall a lot more. As a non...

I can help with the maths: £65 x 12 = £780 x10 years = £7,800.

I would ask on pavingexpert.com. But I don't really understand the tosh on here about drainage - go on the Building Regulations section and there's a hundred threads about the council saying the stuff isn't permeable, doesn't drain etc. You can't have it both ways.

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The B&Q marketplace is complete ****e and ruining whatever reputation they ever had.