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The CT1 or OB1 stuff is pretty good at that kind of job and i would lay a bead around the centre of the perimeter frame and also a small splodge on those angle brackets as it will squealch through the hole and you can smooth it off on the underside. The weight of the quartz will ensure it gets a...

They sell the bendy MDF all over the place now... https://www.diy.com/departments/flexible-mdf-fibreboard-l-1220mm-w-607mm-t-6mm/5059340069470_BQ.prd?storeId=1237&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4rK8BhD7ARIsAFe5LXLupQFztsA9-ZROAl3Nc1cUBV06mFiUFqSpfIu19Pq-3tKH_wJndKoaAkCnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Quite possibly due to expansion although may not have been fully into the union so looks like it just needs sliding back into the union bracket. As the left edge has the outlet it may be the right hand side that needs moving so unclip it from the other brackets and make sure it is inserted up to...

Try one of these.... https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-90216-telescopic-basin-wrench-3-8-1-1-4-/71701

It looks like the ridge cap has come off and you need something like this...

looks like this one.... https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/polypipe-ogee-fascia-bracket-130mm-white/

Given the spans you are dealing with you will be ok to board it out but obviously do not overload it and make sure you distribute the weight evenly. You also need to aim for getting the joints of your boards to the centre of each joist, especially if they are straight edged like your image...

I am no electrician but it certainly does sound like you have a damaged cable. Keep the power switched off and get an electrician to it as soon as you can.

That is a product called Flashband, a bituminous adhesive strip mainly used in roofing applications to replace lead so it has clearly been used to cover up an issue with the brickwork in that area. Never seen it at ground level and most likely a DIY fix. You may need to remove it all to see what...

Screw suitable timbers up the sides and a header timber for the top to leave them 15mm shy of the wall surface and then fit 12mm plasterboard so you have around 3mm for the skim finish.

The joint was typically mortared at that level and the repair you have done will be just fine but just make sure you fill it all around and smooth it off so it looks neater and you can always paint it to match the pipe later if you like. It will not have expelled sewage as such as you would...

Post a photo of the hatches open as there may be scope to raise them just enough to clear the skirts.

Looks like a combination of poor slate mixing and really substandard workmanship. No idea what is going on at the left party wall edge but how they can think that is finished is beyond me. The spacings are wrong in several areas, slates should have been graded and laid with the thickest to the...

That thing aint falling forward trust me, by the time the shelves are loaded with shoes, boots, football / rugby boots, wellies, plus any of the usual random crap that seems to find it's way onto ours you have nothing to worry about.

The fact that the wall has fallen and all the blocks have seperated from each other in nice neat lines means that there was very little adhesion in the mortar and most likely cause would be a weak mortar mix. Was it a bricky that did the original job or a DIY'er as that is a very rookie mistake...

If your contract is with the loft conversion firm then take it up with them as I assume it is them you are paying ?

Agree with what has been said above but why has it been pointed in what looks like I Can't Believe It's Not Butter ? That is the sandiest mix i've seen in a long time and doesn't look adequate in either performance or visually, I bet you can see that verge from the foot of the garden....

Use an M6 / M8 / M8 / M12 washer dependant on the widest gap you have and run it down the wall with your pencil against the inner rim and it will do the same thing as the 40 quid tracer scribe.

It would be worth you standing outside during a heavy rainfall and watching how the roof and gutter perform, you may get wet but it may tell you what is causing it too.

Do you have a better image of the hole and pump as it may be possible to adjust the position of it to route the piping nearer the corner and then it would be easier to conceal it and provide removable access panels to both pump/sump and pipe.