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Why is the pump mounted on the wall at all? Aren't CH pumps usually fully supported by the pipework they're mounted in.

Oh, that makes more sense. It was painted cream previously. Can you suggest what primer would seal the old paint?

Oops, I forgot to mention the most puzzling part... I also did the skirting and the radiator pipes. The radiator pipes are still the same colour as the skirting behind them - brilliant white.

Span is about 10'. It's supporting an external wall to a 1939 built semi. The pillar is about 5" deep and 15" wide. The 2 holes are just a bit bigger than the 15mm pipes that run through them. They're roughly in the centre of the pillar. I'll put a picture up tonight.

I recently re-painted a radiator. I used DULUX pure brilliant white undercoat and gloss. 4 months later and the radiator has turned cream. I used the same paint on the window sill above and it's still white. Any idea why this has happened?

I had a new radiator installed in my kitchen (new site, not just a new rad). In order to run pipework to the new location the plumber drilled 2 holes through the base of a pillar that is basically the remnants of a wall left in place to support the RSJ that replaced the wall. This feels like a...

With option 1 is there not space to put the toilet with the back to the window wall? That will remove a bend and the distance to the soil stack. If not (i.e. the door opens onto the sink) could you fit the sink onto the windown wall as well?

Previously there was only a single down-pipe at the farthest corner (as the crow-flies) from the new downpipe. The second one was added because the contractor believed a single one to be insufficient. He may be right about that, but everyone else on the street has added the second one on the...

I live in a fairly typical 30s semi. My neighbour recently had his house re-guttered and they added a new downpipe at the join of mine and his property. Initially it drained straight into the ground at the foot of the building (there's a flower bed there). I told my neighbour that this...

That is better, thanks. Just one clarification - should I aim to get the drop across each rad equal to the manufacturer specified drop at the boiler or the actual drop at the boiler that I've achieved? (PS - Closing the inlet valve on the hall rad has already helped considerably, so thanks...

You read my mind - I was about to ask for a how-to guide on balancing a system!

That's interesting, I didn't know I could do that. I take it the flow side is the "in" side?

Of course I just realised that this won't stop my hall getting really hot...

The room stat for my CHS is currently in the hall. The hall radiator doesn't have a TRV, but all other rooms do. Unfortunately my hall radiator is oversized, so if I want to heat the rooms to a good temperature the stat in the hall has to be set to very high and I have to live with a hall...

That should be fine then. How close is the HW cylinder to the bathroom?

Hold your horses. Have you considered a venturi shower mixer like the Trevi Boost. If you have decent mains pressure (as you have already suggested you do) and your shower will be close to the hot water cylinder it could be just the ticket. Remaining question is what head of water you have...

Have you been stalking me?

What's a conex straight connector and how do they solve my problem? Is this another type of connection that can be made to pipework that I've not heard of? I found a few things on screwfix with those 3 words in their name... but can't see how they solve the problem.

Hmm... or i could get a new mono-block tap with tails for just £50. Just seems wrong to throw the tap because the pipes are buggered. Maybe I'll see how those tails actually connect into the tap first and take it from there. Thanks for reining in my enthusiasm. So next question, my tap is...

Thanks guys. I think I might invest in a gas torch and give a soldered joint a go first then.