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I should clarify, 20mm OD of the cable (ish) I think a 1500mm drill will be fine :) longest o could find was 1000

For reasons I'm not going to elaborate on. This is my only sensible option without huge amounts of building work. And it's daft. On the left door, is my garage, floor is 150 lower than the floor shown. On my right is the front door. Patio 150 lower than the floor shown. The floor is a solid...

5 rows up. Half way! Got enough blocks to do one more course. Then another delivery needed. I may also get the lintel while I'm at it.

Little wins. Close up of the now forming pillar And some CMU fill

If it's any consolation, I deal with 40-80kv cables daily with much less armour than that will have. Safety risk is minimal. That said, a well placed bonfire may twist the arm of the authorities

Thanks. Going for a 20mm external insulation and 6mm render. It's not much, but orders of magnetude better than none. Good luck, hope the weather holds for you. Blocks are interesting... Not laid 100mm ones before. I'm happy with the accuracy and mortar joints, but my process is a bit long...

2 courses in and blocks re-stacked to let me laser the 3rd and up.

Any idea of what you want to use the space for? Storage, functional, leasure, hot tub?

Woody. Good to know. I shall invest in some I thinks ;) Can see the rationale against tensile forces due to lateral loads, but assume that as soon as you're more than a few rows up, compression loads will dominated any strength issues.

Ventilation is your main thing. Need to ensure warm humid air hitting the cold blocks doesn't condense with nowhere to go. External insulation will be optimal if possible.

Moving up on my workshop build, I'm wondering if it's worth adding brick mesh. I get the theory of improved tensile strength, but I've never knowingly encountered it when drilling into walls. Is it worth it / needed / helpful for a 100mm block wall? If so, on how many courses? - recommended...

Got blocks. Will lay. I'll admit, I ran the quantities on how many I need and was not expecting over 5 pallets worth. Genuinely didn't realise how many bricks/blocks are needed to build a building. This is the first of 3 loads. Have the first two down on the lefthand wall. Want to have the...

Would add that there are several flavours of plasterboard. You need taper edge to do the joint and I suggest 12mm not 9mm Also, consider thermal or acoustic boards

Agreed it needs a measuring from the ground. But my question is what is ground level when you've cut into it ~600mm

Just looking for some second opinions. I'm building a new workshop on a corner plot road side, but not beyond the principle elevation. Within 1m of existing house. Within 1m of boundary. Detailed here :https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/workshop-mk2.636602/. According to "Permitted...

Beautiful weather! Retaining wall in, Insulation, DPM and backfill installed. Got steel in for the piers. Yay lifting blocks over them :l

Sacks of gravel. Having just paid to get rid of a bag of soil that was mostly, well, gravel.

Block by block. Brick by brick... up we go. That's the hardest ones done now. Bit annoyed, there was a bit of grit on a block so I'm almost 3mm out of level over 6m I'm toying with the idea of looping pipes through the dense concrete blocks prior to filling them so I can use it as a solar...

Ideal world, DPMs are a continuous, perfect sheets of plastic (or other polymer) and will stop everything. But in reality, they are folded and rolled for packing. They have creases in them that struggle to seal when jointed. They get walked on. They have concrete and screed poured on them...

First two blocks in... let's goooo.