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If youare using an undercloak it should end 5omm past the brickwork and the tiles should end level with that

ply on wall 40mm in from edge, muck on wall to just above ply, fix undercoak into ply and point up underneath. mail tiles into ply and bed onto the undercloak which should be 50mm beyond the brickwork.

Yes you can bed under the undercloak on the wall and then bed your tiles on the undercloaks which will reduce the depth of muck on the verge

I would screw a strip of ezternal ply on to the brickwork, keeping it 40mm from the outside edge. You can then nail your tiles to the ply and bed your verge onto the brickwork

in that case the length of the soakers will be different but still 180mm lead for soakers and flashing.

I assume you have 10.5 x 6,5 plain tiles. You should use a roll of 180mm code 4 lead. The soakers should be 190mm long and be bent with a 75mm upstand. The 180 is spot on for step flashing as well.

What type of roof covering have you had installed and which type of covering was removed ?

sound like a typical old stock wall allowing damp to soak through. Best long term solution would be to fix external grade ply to the wall and cover in Lead. Expensive but very good.

We stripped a coupleof houses that had foam insulation a while ago and it took about a day and half to remove it all and skip it.

Assuming that the roof is to be covered in interlocking tiles i would expect it to take 2 men about 6 days. Maybe about 5k ish but that is only a rough idea without more detail of the roof and builing.

It is not a good job strippimg of all that foam, personally i would probably add about £500 labour for a typical semi.

If you have got a ladder it should be easy to seperate the existing joints unless they are glued solid.

If it is a plastic pipe you could cut out a small section to allow you to clear the blockage and join it together again with a down pipe connector. If it is cast you will probably need to dis assemble the entire thing.

We have just fittred 1200 solar slates with slate hooks in a natural slate roof. They look good but are very expensive, We had electricins doing all the connecting on the inside.

Anything you paint over the existing covering will only be a short term repair. The only long term solution is a new roof covering.

Lead soakers will last far longer than cheap preformed soakers and can be dressed as required also the preformed soakers usually only have about 50mm upstand which is not really enough with plain tiles.

If the existing main roof has no underlay there is no point fitting a strip by the side of the cheeks, Lead soakers are best, the size will depend on the covering you are using on your dormer cheeks, For plain tiles use 195x180 code 3 soakers with a 75mm upstand

Normally you fix the main roof underlay and battens first, turning the underlay 100mm up the cheeks. You then fix the underlay to the dormer cheeks overlapping main roof undrlay. Generally you should fix counter battens to the cheeks as they are boarded.

If there is scaffolding included then £1500 is not too bad, Cement fibre or spannish slates should not be any more expensive. If you are going to have a go yourself you may find the cement fibre option easier.

Even in London you can a good size roof done for under 10k so option 3 is over 20% of the price. Consider carefully.