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Yes, It would, pushfit fittings normally have a line as to how far the pipe will insert into it as well as the pipe will be marked. Alternatively the body will change diameter so it'll pretty apparent how far the pipe will insert into the fitting.

If it isn't squeaky clean then yes, even then they can still be a bit of a bugger sometimes. As suggested bunging the system and half fill the new rads from one side then the other to avoid pushing any extra air into the pipework. Or if you can freeze it then even better but you'll need to...

As you suggest, the shower pump is controlled by the flow switches, they sense flow in the pipe and that flow in the pipe is controlled by the valve(s) in the shower. By that reckoning, descaling the shower head wouldn't alter the way the shower valve and reed switch system works, therefore it...

No chipboard anywhere in a bathroom IMO. Worst decision ever to put a material that literally falls apart when it gets damp/wet into a space that gets damp and wet. Replace the chipboard with OSB3 or ply, min 18mm thick. If it's upstairs then tank the wet space before tiling and laying the...

Oh dear, well the first issue is the flexi pipes that are already there. Ideally they would be replaced. The run rigid pipe out from the plastic in the wall and clip it properly if you are looking to add an appliance tee. You really want to secure/support the cold feed that the tee will be on as...

I always use copper up through the floor into the valve. Much more sturdy and better against any mechanical bangs from vacuum cleaners etc.

Not good enough - if building control say it hasn't been notified then quite simply it hasn't been and the builders need to get it sorted, or all you can do is threaten to get it done yourself and then bill them for it.

Nope, overthinking it a bit methinks. A vertical drop from the basin's trap height to the floor is quite a normal height for basin waste runs. You may get gurgling @ the trap when emptying a whole basin full but that could be dealt with by an anti vac trap. What else is on the run?

Nope, wouldn't recommend anyone do anything with regards to a boiler flue unless gas safe registered, if for no other reason than not having the correct equipment and the knowledge to use it to properly check and test the flue and boiler was running properly and safely once the work was done...

As suggested, if you aren't using the PRV as an Autofill then there's no need for it. With a sealed system you would have to have a pressure gauge and that would be watched as the system is filled to the desired pressure, as with the filling loop with the gauge. Yes - the filling connection...

Again, I wouldn't use an always open autofill, for the reasons I stated. I wouldn't want to be out for the day, fitting goes and that is then being fed by an open ended supply. If you did want to use it then the PRV would need to be dropped to a suitable system pressure yes.

Nope - Autofills were used over here a while back and were dropped quickly. The last thing you want is an automatic control on the fill side. If the system did spring a leak then the autofill would just keep pumping mains pressure water into the system without any intervention and if not found...

What LA are you? I know a lot of the LA's are phasing out their control teams and it's going out to third party inspectors. I'm surprised it's the builders issue though, might be a question for the BC guys as to who they would think is responsible for it., the builders aren't the ones that...

Well given the installation is notifiable then building control would be the place to start I would suggest. The trouble is, as it is notifiable then it may fall to you initially to then get the work certified so it is 'legal' and then you need to chase them. That wouldn't re-instate any...

yes, unfortunately that can void the warranty. Though some manufacturers may take the position, once explained, and that they may come out and check the installation and service the cylinder and re-instate the warranty, always worth asking. Again I think I'd be chasing after the original...

Not normally what would be used for a filling loop. As suggested, no need for the PRV. Only thing that is missing really is the double check valve with an isolator unless a gauge is needed then the pic I attached is really the normal setup. I presume the OV boiler can be run sealed?

If it was installed by the same installer then they should have notified it. That can be done through the GSR too but the boiler installer would needed to be HWSS certified first. An Unvented installation is notifiable to the LABC. The alternative is that it wasn't installed by the same person...

I don't, a quick rough up with some 180 paper if it needs it to clean it up

If using plastic then +1 for speedfit. Though that can be dictated by what plastic is already there.

There should really be a valve on both ends of a filling loop to allow it to be fully isolated. You get 2 kinds of double check valves, verifiable and non verifiable - one would usually have a screw that can be removed to see if the valve is passing, the other doesn't, I've never seen a check...