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As suggested - why core - just use a good quality 25mm masonry bit and back off with the pressure on the gun when getting to the outside wall

Rubbish - though dependent on what type and size of radiator is to be fitted will dictate what needs to happen to the wall in preparation. I fit rads to stud walls all the time. If the rads on the wall then no need to wait to fit the carpet.

Yes, just make sure the seal/O ring/grab ring (material dependent) is set correctly. I do believe Plasson do a tool to tighten their fittings but a couple of good quality pairs of grips should do the job.

They spend a lot of time on R&D so I guess they wouldn't have introduced a push fit version if it wasn't suitable. That being said I always use the compression types as it's what I've always used

Nope, anything with a gland nut uses a gland type seal. O-Ring type spindles don't use nuts, they are all usually C clipped. - Valve that has a C Clip where the spindle uses O-Rings to seal - valve that has a gland nut has a packed gland seal Don't think I've ever seen a gate valve without...

What fittings are you talking about? The plasson/philmac are mostly compression types. I see that a stop tap is mentioned? They would normally be in a toby/stop tap chamber. Anything brass that is to sit underground though, as mentioned, needs to be a DZR type but they aren't cheap. This is due...

Would always use a plasson or a philmac compression underground, it's what they're designed for.

It should twist round and pull up. I think what's happening is you are getting it the the point where the clips get need to click that extra bit past the lock tabs, then it would lift out but if you're not sure then don't chance it.

The rust with probably be water leaking into the outside case and it's the outside case in mild steel rusting up. May need opening up to check it out, if they can be. Not sure whether it's unvented or not though, all the MI stuff is in Portuguese. Time for a local Portuguese installer to come...

That chrome cover should unscrew, unscrew it slightly, move the overflow back to centre and then tighten it back up, oh and try not to overfill the bath ;)

If you believe it's a HR shower then they would be the people to contact and send them pics. If it's one of theirs they should be able to ID and confirm if parts are available.

I think you've got a bigger issue than that little gap TBF, that's pretty damp. Anything you use to seal that, apart from mortar, will need the area clean and dry. A polymer silicone adhesive would also do the job but again needs to be clean.

That would be a strip down job methinks, see what's going on in there.

Yes - shims/packers/wedges whatever can support the pan properly, just try and support as much of the rim as possible rather than just one spot to avoid point load/rocking

Only real way out of that is packers supporting the whole gap and then use a silicone adhesive to lock it all in place. It is a fudge but without levelling the floor then not a lot else to do. Do know though, user dependent, it may work it's way loose or even crack over the longer term.

If you are talking about a hand pull rail then not really, they all have to meet a certain standard so just make sure it is properly certified. The key with them is fitting, if it's a brick wall then nice M10 anchors, if it's framed then nothing less than fixed directly into the uprights...

No it's not - The US standards are a bit of a joke, basically you can get away with just about anything and using any materials you want as long as it doesn't affect anyone else. That and they are state enforced so there are no real common standards. In the UK the regs are much tighter and we...

Never use it anywhere, ever. I'd use McAlpine compression before I'd ever use push fit.

Seen this a few time now but it really is a bit of a red herring. Yes the inserts drop the ID to 15mm but that is only for those small sections, It doesn't really impact greatly on the energy carrying capacity of the pipe as a whole. All that will really happen is increase the water velocity at...

No Picture of the boiler and the flow and return as it currently stands? Was the 15mm plastic directly connected to the boiler or were there copper pipes at that point? How many rads and average sizes as this will dictate how the system may perform under full load as the 15mm pipe can only carry...