Search results

You can get specific insulated ducts for every size of MDPE. Shallowduct is the one I used to use for 25/30mm MDPE, from the same people that produce the Insuduct. Not sure what you mean, MDPE is relatively flexible?? It comes in loops?

That's a contact temp sensing head - not a TRV (thermostatic radiator valve) though they do work in the same way. The vial sits inside the pocket at the top of the pump to maintain set flow temps. Obviously the valve itself is damaged and needs replaced. Yes the system will need isolated and...

Water sealing what? Neither of them are a standard silicone which would be used for standard sealing, like baths, showers etc, they are a silicone polymer adhesive which is quite different stuff.

Min trench depth in 750mm. Entry point into a property needs to be ducted, insulated and screened. As suggested there are other options like 'Insuduct' available when breaching the properties wall. Just look up building/water regs and it should show you. These standards are for a normal...

Get a wire brush and clean it up to have a proper look but it does look like a male coupler into a 3/4" adapting tee. The tee may have been used previously as a drain off or a fill point, who knows. No - silicone will not work for any length of time. If you could get it dry then a self...

If the appliance is located say in a flat etc then they can be handy as they obviously have the double barrier to avoid flooding. As suggested though a good quality standard hose should be fine. Rarely seen them burst and even then it was at the plastic ends where someone just hadn't set it out...

No need to change the pressure on the boiler, this has nothing to do with water pressure, that's just the CH system pressure. The rads and the central heating in general, if it's working ok, will have nothing to do with the HW so no need to change anything there. The key here is to see if the...

ISO valves designed for (edit) hot and cold water aren't normally a standard for use in CH systems and TBH there isn't really any instance where ISO valves should be used. Where valves are needed then one specifically designed to be used in CH systems would normally be used.

The pump might be getting a little lazy if it's an old boiler and that'll mean the system probably needs balanced.

Pic?

You need to know the pipe spacing as it has been set out and the size of pipe, that coupled with flow/return temps. There are BS EN design standards and standard output tables for UFH as per standard designs and UFH types, floor types etc. These would normally be calculated at a standard 1-...

Typically UFH output is detailed as watts per m2 and that is calculated with pipe distances against flow temp @ a certain flow rate. The floor coverings don't come into that base equation though the thermal conductivity/tog could be then be calculated and the output per m2 suitably adjusted.

If you had to unscrew the top of the cover off like in the pic then the splined shaft of the valve has a threaded hole in the top, that allows the top of the cover to screw on and hold the chrome head onto the valve. If the are like that then one cover will have a splined hole that will work...

Those valves usually come as a set and one of the valve tops is what called a lockshield whereby the chrome valve cap doesn't have a spline fit and just spins freely though the other does have a spline fit. Undo both tops and see if one fits the splined shaft of the valve top and use that to try...

Yes - their Sunday name is a hot water cylinder Would agree about it being an open vent - If they occupants have a (vented) hot water cylinder that will be the Cold Water Cistern (CWSC) for it, the up and over pipe will be the vent for the cylinder. Could do with a good clean though the actual...

Depending on where in Italy then this may not be but if there is a potential frost/freezing risk then you also need to consider that.

If you have gravity cold water, that would suggest that there may have been a hot water cylinder at one time? 2 electric showers? Why? That seems to be a very strange way to service, what I can only presume is multiple bathrooms/en suites? Have you had you mains water surveyed? Given you want...

+1 Given the shower is the lowest point, anything higher connected into the same run, if the shared pipe blocks, will run into the shower tray and then overflow quite quickly. As suggested, ideally you would want them on separate runs, if that isn't possible then connect the basin as far down...

When it comes to showers and tray etc I always employ belt 'n' braces, the alternative can be a real nightmare.

You need to be very careful if air testing pipework, it can cause significant damage if a fitting or pipe goes due to the ability of air to be compressed. It isn't standard practice to use air to test water systems, would always recommend wet testing. 1.5 times the working pressure for...