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It's already had a DPC injection prior to me moving here. Even if it did stop rising it ain't gonna stop the penetrating damp.

Megaman CFLs, lol! They lasted many years, unfortunately no longer available and not immediate 100% light output like LEDs. Hive bulbs are expensive but I've had one on all night, every night for the last 5 years or so and it still works.

There are no pipes or drains in the floor to leak, all gutters good etc. Built in approximately 1870. The property is in an area very exposed with no shelter from wind and so gets battered with wind & rain. I think I am gonna have to get a specialist to have a look, still getting different...

Rising and penetrating, it's a solid 9" wall with no proper dpc. It's had an injected dpc but doubt that's doing anything, and it won't stop penetrating damp anyway. I've been advised to "tank" the walls before building the stud wall away from the existing walls. Is it best to tank/seal the...

Hi all! I'm hoping to start renovation on my kitchen soon into the new year. The problem is three walls of it are external walls and are 9" solid walls and thus damp penetrates through them (yes someone has tried to inject a DPC lol). I'm not sure what the best course of action is, although...

Just change the entire fitting, you'll likely end up throwing good money after bad. Who knows if the LED chips are failing or the driver (or both).

These basically never need replacing. There's nothing in them apart from a lamp holder (which is easily replaceable)

I've rescued one or two out of skips ;) They seem to sell for £30-50 ish on eBay

Have patience & leave well alone

Coughtrie still make that bulkhead! Expensive but worth every penny, it'll last a very, very long time and the glass cover won't go yellow over time either as the one above https://www.coughtrie.com/shop/heritage/sp/

On a side note, it appears it's an instant start ballast and not a very good one either. I hope you didn't pay too much to replace the old ballast like for like when you didn't need to and I hope the light isn't switched regularly else you're going to be replacing tubes regularly

This type of terminal should really only be used with solid core cable so I'd advise fitting the correct size ferrules

The lamp is bad or you've fitted the wrong wattage of lamp most likely. The HF ballast will be shutting the lamp down thinking it's faulty as the operating parameters are wrong. You need a 4 pin 28w lamp. I highly recommend buying a new old stock 2D lamp as modern ones are all junk and won't...

Download the specific driver for whatever model you have from the Toshiba website. Touchpad drivers usually have an option to enable 'palm detection' which disables the touchpad whilst typing

Your printer is laser so the "ink" cartridges actually contain toner. The chip will be what keeps track of how many prints the cartridges have done and the level is merely estimated from this, the level of toner is not actually measured (by a sensor or suchlike). If your printer supports it...

Is the "roof" above a loft? If so you can terminate the 10mm into a 3A fused spur in the loft and run 1mm cable down to the light, or as above just use the existing lighting circuit instead

If you don't mind going back to CFLs it might be worth looking for some good quality new old stock ones?

You don't mention colour temperature of the Maxim lamps you bought, maybe they are cool white 4000k or "daylight" circa 6000k? You want warm white 2700 or 3000k lamps to get a similar colour to the old GLS lamps. If it's purely that they're too bright, get a lower wattage, maybe a 25w equivalent?

You will be better off just buying a new one, 802.11N is ancient now. I advise an 802.11AC minimum, something like this will do the trick (£13): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Archer-T2U-Plus-Windows10-10-9-10-14/dp/B07PJV66CN/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+wifi&qid=1601160667&sr=8-3

Just fyi, half the price on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tridonic-PC-2x58w-T8-PRO-sl-Ballast/224137234984?hash=item342f9eca28:g:b5AAAOSwUwRfSWHW