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thanks for your info. so basically if you want one, you'll need a pump or have to run it from the mains? as 10m head is not really possible !!! :) if cut out fails it can be quite dangerous ? i mean through being scalded? i did hear that something failed and when the cold tap downstairs...

i'm trying to understand electric showers i little bit: they can be fed fom the mains OR from a cold water tank can't they? oviously they only need a cold feed into them. but can they be very dangerous: i have heard that if the stat inside ithem goes faulty, and another tap is turned on...

if you get an airlock though, and remove it, kit may be persistent. that why pipe runs to bathrooms and to the hot water cylinder should beas straight as possible, and hot water distributing pipe from the tee (to the vent/taps from the cylinder should fall at 90 degrees don and then run...

a sstem bypass is usually installed in a boiler nowadays. otherwise he'll need to add piping to the circuit, andinstalled an automatic bypass valve on that circuit.

what are the prices for eg/ in an average plumbers merchant for simple things like a 32mm bottle trap, doughnut washer, 15 and 22mm pipe bungs, etc? i have heard some things can be expensive in there????

sorry for my ignorance- what do you mean sheds? stores like b & q!!!?

i never knew they were owned by the same company! i do agree though that plumbers merchants are way better for specific items and know what they are talking about more than the average b & q staff etc!

yep i agree that prices for some items are more expensive than screwfix etc. shame that a lot of their items are broken though... not good.

really-why do you try and avoid b & q? plumbing section in the new store near me is really good now-sells how water cylinders, cold water tanks, rads, showers, shower pumps, pumps, motorised valves, programmers, loads and loads of stuff really. they have a trade counter and everything!

thanks for your help-i take it these are available in b & q also?

If running pipes to a shower pump (from CWSC and HWSV - surrey flange) always try and make the pipes run as straight as possible, the less bends/elbows the better (or so I believe). Less airlocks this way and it looks better also!

I am thinking about having a wall hung basin instead of my old pedestal. I have just put a a new mobobloc tap in this but will use that for my new basin. The basin I am thinking of buying has NO screws with it (or so it says)! and as I have never hung a basin before to the wall I wondered what...

if you measure your original rad - height and width and for eg if its a single panel - look in a catalgoue for one the same size and it will give the rating. then you can work out a similar rating for your new rad this way. that's what i did anyway!

an infrared thermometer - sound better than the ones i bought a while ago. have you got a link for it please?

maybe when you have your hot water on only, the hot water isn't the last return T back to the boiler???? this making your upstairs rads hot? although if the pump is not running then maybe the hot water and upsatirs rads are as you mentioned just heating up by gravity. Must be a wiring fault...

is this the screwfix blue and white one you are talking about?? i fitted a red and black coloured one from b & q and it was really good. quite flimsy, i mean you need to be careful not to break it when fitting - but works really well!!! :)

don't know what happened there but it has stopped now (touch wood)!! as the poster before said though, the pump didn't really need bleeding, just the rads.

i put a new monobloc mixer i n my bathroom 3 weeks ago and with the flexi connectors, 12mm to 15mm (the 12mm in the tap) i screwed them hand tight and then tightened a bit more with an adjustable. NOT overtight though!.

just bled it (in the end) and a little water came out, but when i have tightened the screw up again a bit of water dribbles out of the grundfos black sticker/thing on the front of the pump!!! why is this, will it stop??!

from what I know if you have gravity h/w and pumped heating ( a c-plan) - usually a solid fuel boiler too, you should have an anti-gravity valve on/before your heating circuit to prevent gravity h/w from getting to any rads/warming them up!!