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Thank you @EFLImpudence. I think with the ‘cable guide’ and then some filler - it won’t go far. Thanks D

Further to original post and helpful advice (@Sureitsoff?, @pete01 & @EFLImpudence), I’ve cut in three back boxes to my plaster board on stud wall. I’ve made small vertical drop channels of about 65mm to feed the First fix T&E down into each box so my electrician can fit / wire the flex-outlet...

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Thank you @denso13. I was kinda leaning more towards the non corrosive view. D

I’ve been having a go with the marsh-mallow type fillers and they generally work okay but in some instances expanding foam might be a lot quicker. Anyone have a view on the expanding foam and copper pipes malarkey ? Thanks D

Thank you - @Sureitsoff? I’m using them for task lighting over a (kitchen) worktop. Good to know I’ve got some flexibility to add. Best D

After I’ve transitioned the first fix T&E to a white 0.75 heat resistant flex, I need to tidily run it maybe 300mm to the top of an exposed beam. I’ll run it along the top of beam maybe a metre where I plan to have a single 6W LED GU10 light. In the event I need to ‘daisy chain’ another light...

Thank you @Sureitsoff? - I’ll have a look for those too. Regards D

Thank you @pete01 and @EFLImpudence - it didn’t occur to me to use the connections already provided in a flex-outlet plate. I was thinking only about the plate to conceal the Wago terminations / neat transition to flex but what you’ve suggested is better. I’ll look again and see what I can...

I’m having some lights installed in a kitchen. So far only the first fix is in - I’ve got T+E popping out through plasterboard in roughly the right areas. I need to get some surface mounted wires up onto a couple of beams where it would be easier to install white round 0.75mm flex. Once on...

Thanks replies @gas112 and @fixitflav. I’ve used something similar to the recommended ‘marsh mallow’ type filler (One Strike); I’ll give that a try if I can knife it in from below. I do wonder if the cycle of expansion/contraction might dislodge it but worth a try. I’m still interested in...

Further to above - I bought Soudal Expanding Foam B3 Gun Grade 750ml based on description “Use it around window and door frames, to seal openings in roof constructions or when insulating around pipes and electrical wiring”. Sounds perfect but I’ve noticed some posts on here warning it can be...

I’ve been renewing CH drops in bungalow. I’ve got some drafty gaps that need closing where the 15mm copper pipes come down from loft. What’s the best material and technique to close them up. Thanks D

Sorry - that second one for the 22mm pipe is a bit less at 19/22/19

Thanks reply @Exedon - I was meaning the thickness of the insulation 25mm - 15mm pipe - 25mm = 65mm diameter 25mm - 22mm pipe - 25mm = 72mm diameter Best D

I’m in process of restoring a Central Heating system in my (old) bungalow. I’d like to improve my pipe insulation in loft - presently pipes are lagged with a felty looking sleeve. A quick measure up; I’d need about 80m of the thicker pipe insulation (25mm/pipe/25mm) I was a bit surprised to find...

Thank you @Johntheo5 I’ll need to look/digest that Many thanks D

@Johntheo5 - can I just check something …. If I take the same physical size of radiator, same Δt of 20 but now at a lower flow temperature; let’s say the 1kW example by was at 80/60 and I now run same rad at 70/50 and achieve a reduced 0.75kW output. (0.75x860/60/20)x60 =32.25 L/hr So this...

Thank you @Johntheo5 - that’s very kind of you. May I ask; is Δt the difference between flow and return temperatures ? Thanks D

I bought some Danfoss TRVs (RAS-B2). They are (dynamic) valves with a preset numbered dial to save faffing with lock-shields to balance a system (lock-shields are all left fully open). The spec states suitable for a flow rate 10-135l/hr; Danfoss kindly provided this formula to check flow rate...