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Thank you for this mate

Any information on this ? Whatever they used it the past clearly worked, so definitely want to replicate whatever they did all those years ago. I'm not doing the job , a roofer friend is.

Like I said the house was built in 1919 and it had a new roof roughly 60 years ago. The current fillets lasted 60 years. If the job is done well why do you think this one isn't going to last ? I'm not doing it. The roofer is.

Had a think about it and I'm just going to go with the cement fillet. My thinking is the roof was redone in the 60's/70's (the house has been in the family since it was built so know the history). The roof hasn't been touched, leaked or needed repair since. So it obviously works...

House built around 1919. The walls are made of irregular shaped stone and NOT brick. All the flashing is currently/has always been a cement mix. House has never had leaks in its past and the flashing has held up okay. Obviously it's not going to last forever and it's finally given up over...

Question. When he comes back. If he can't find the break and turns it into two radials. Can you talk me through the process? This is all new to me so I'm just assuming. This problem has got me really curious and I'm trying to use it as an opportunity to understand and expand my...

Okay so the electrician his just quickly came out. Did some tests , confirmed there is a break in the loop somewhere. Is coming back to try find the break, if not he said he will convert it into two radial circuits. God knows how long there has been a break in the loop. I'm guessing I...

On another note. Bathroom is right above the kitchen. Bath had a leaky dripping tap connection about a month ago, it's fixed but bath panels are still off. I noticed a load of cables running behind the bath is this a huge issue or an acceptable way to lay cables?

The builder did the kitchen. So I'm not super surprised there but the company that came out and did the checks in 2017 were. https://electricallsouthwales.co.uk So legit and qualified as far as I'm aware Just quickly wrote all this down to help me explain what happened to whoever comes out...

* Edit. I Understand now

This is back from 2017 where the house was looked at. It was deemed unsatisfactory, then a load of work was carried out to rectify all the faults. Can't find any paperwork after the rectification was carried out but I'm sure I'll have it somewhere. Possibly a paper copy. The rectification...

Yep. The kitchen was being renovated by a builder and he wired it. Then an electrician friend if it came out and checked it. About 5 years after the builder did the kitchen I moved away for a bit and in that time period I rented the house out. Before renting out I paid an a proper...

My knowledge is really limited. 1. Yeah I don't really understand how the toaster socket and all the sockets to the right of it went down at exactly the same time as the shock incident, if it was a ring. So if it was a ring wouldn't there need to be two faults at the same time for this to...

I'll have a look when I get back home. I'll definitely mention it to whoever comes out to check over it.

Earth wires are not visible in the picture but connect together into this block

I actually want to go out today/this weekend. 1. So at the consumer unit I'm going switch "OFF" the power to the kitchen and all the other accociated sockets. 2. Leave on the other switch that's labelled socket's on the consumer unit "ON" (this only appears to power one downstairs sockets at...

**** IMPORTANT UPDATE**** 1. Since turning off everything in the consumer. unit. 2. Removing cover plates (4) and (7). To take pictures and check for loose wires (non seemed to be lose). 3. Refitting said cover plates 4. Turning Everything back on at the consumer unit. EVERYTHING IS...

1. Socket (7) this socket i assume is the final socket (the one located in the other room). 2. A single wire comes out the socket and goes left towards the fused connector that consoles the heated floor. 3. Two wires also go out the back of the socket towards the kitchen.

Socket (4) what the toaster was plugged into. Doesn't appear to be loose cables or damage. But may have missed something.

Socket (3) the last working socket in the run. Access really difficult, can't check wiring properly without taking apart the kitchen.