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I've been dealing with a joiner who's making a door for me. I was initially advised 4 weeks. 5 months later I've finally received the door but internal dimensions are a few cm out and rather than insulation wood sandwich it's single panel. I've complained and joiner gas offered to make...

Hi. I have 3 bed house I.ve been renovating. There's a large bathroom on the first floor and my original plan was to install an ensuite off the master attic bedroom. This would be small and pokey but my feeling was it would add value when we come to sell. The room was ensuite before but bathroom...

I'm preparing to carpet some rooms with original wooden floorboards. The boards are ok but there are a few nicked edges and gaps up to about 15mm. We're going to lay a decent underlay but i'm wondering if i should be preping the gaps in any way or whether the underlay/carpet will ride over them...

i'm trying to calculate the most efficient way to lay my underlay. I'm presuming that can use the off cut sections to make best use of it. It'll mean more joins but is this a problem? I ask because i've recently had a quote and having gone over the sums the company seem to have quoted for...

i'm about to lay some laminate floor on concrete base which is a bit uneven and trying to decide if i need separate dpm or if i should go for the 2in1 stuff. Quick-step softboard says its suitable to accommodate unevenness but needs dpm is this the gist of it...2in1=thinner and better on even...

I'm just planning for some downlights and wondering the best cables to use between lights. The fitting looks like it will take one 1.5mm feed but i thought they would connect daisy chain style with 2 cables into each light apart from the last in the chain. Am i way off the mark? or missing...

Is it ok practice to use a 3 gang, 1 way switch box instead of a junction box, with neutrals connected together? Got a live feed in from another junction box but trying to keep the system neat...for 3 lights i would need three 4-terminal junction boxes so wondering if it's better or ok to...

Hi, i'm building a stud wall with 450mm centres and planning on fitting insulation between each stud. I've noticed that celotex, kingspan etc make boards 450mm wide which would be slightly too wide for the gap. Why don't they make it the correct width for ease of fixing?...am i missing something?

2 things i'm trying to work out: I' insulating a room in an old sandstone building. The internal walls are rendered but externally is lime pointed. I want to insulate so was planning on building studwork against the old wall with 25mm air gap, insulation between studs, then plasterboard...

Hi, just wondering if anyone has any tips on battening out an old sandstone wall that's pretty uneven. I'd like to leave a small gap to allow airflow. Should i screw horizontal timber to floor and ceiling and work off that, or should i start with vertical timbers on the wall, suitably packed...

We had a stove fitted by heats approved installer some time ago. (Aga little wenlock se) I've just had the chimney sweep around to clean but he wasn't able to do anything because he said there was access on the flue pipe. Am I missing something or should be getting onto the installer to sort...

Hopefully someone can help?.... Floor area = 3mx4m I've discovered that the concrete floor is very uneven. I've put a straight edge from one end to the other and it would appear that the middle dips down 2cm . I want to lay new laminate ontop but am worried that the difference in height will...

I've just pulled up the old laminate flooring and underlay to discover that the concrete floor beneath is very uneven with a few blown sections in the top screed. The floor is a bit of a hotchpotch but I can't see any Dpm. In the ideal world I should probably replace the entire slab or better...

I've recently gutted what is going to be my dining room. I'm planning on putTing timber studs in with insulation between and plasterboard ontop. The solid sandstone walls have some damp at floor level, so I was going to leave a small gap behind studs and vent the skirting boards. Should I also...

I was just looking at some doors on door deals.co.uk and spotted this statement: It is an unfortunate fact that exterior Oak doors and frames, from whichever supplier, are not suitable for exposure to direct rain and hot sun and therfore must be sheltered in some form, a porch or canopy...

I've just had my new kitchen installed but as you can see from the photo, the cut edges are slightly ragged which makes the finish look slightly tired. Is this what I should expect? Or should I be complaining to my builder? Thanks for any advice [/img]

Just after a bit of advice on where to start tiling my kitchen floor. I've read lots about starting from the Centre point. I have a long 'galley' type kitchen with the units across the ends and 1 wall and a doorway in the middle. Should i start in the Centre of the floor space or should i still...

My 1960s leanto extension is looking very tatty on the outside, apart from the paint flaking there's been quite a few alterations over the years so bricks are looking very tatty with blocked up windows, filled vents etc. I'm looking for something that is paint on but thick enough to cover the...

I've got windows and door (external) that i'm going to paint with dulux weathershield topcoat. Any recommendations on underdercoat. I have some fortress undercoat (interior & exterior) but thinking i should probably go for dulux weathershield underneath too. Thanks

My nice new door and frame has just arrived (external). Great...except...i've notice the it's slightly too wide. The door was made to custom size but instead of the specified width of 890mm they've made it to 895mm. It doesn't sound much but 2.5mm either side is quite a chunk to sand! (ps...