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Still needs flushed again to remove corrosion. To get it all out 100% is a time consuming job. Depends on pipe runs etc if drop feed then each leg needs drained to endure all crap out. You may never get it all out.

Gonnae end in tears. Or electrocution or flood. Or both!

Tbh you’d need to research your own application as mine was specifically designed for my own house when building it. the spec is now 5/6 years old and things have came on and got better even from then. But basically 3 zone system one of them being hot water. Other 2 zones are rads and then 12...

First proposal. Might be a bit big tbh. :eek:

Wife’s a director of a bank. ;)

Finished. Wife now wants and extension and garden room :rolleyes:

Ps the neutral point is where the cold feed from F&E tank joins into system. Usually on a 22-15 tee at the cylinder return. Run a magnet over the copper pipe. If it sticks or is attracted to pipe then it’s full of sludge(iron magnetite) as magnet shouldn’t stick to copper.

Get a better engineer. You either have a intermittent sticking pump. or you have a blockage in the cold feed at the neutral point on your system or a blockage elsewhere.

As said above it’s not the Size of the pipe it’s the dynamic working gas pressure at inlet with boiler on max and other gas appliances on. you are allowed a 1mbar drop over pipe run from meter dynamic pressure. So if meter is 19mbar with appliances on then you are allowed 18mbar at boiler...

I have a SS combi running an unvented cylinder with draw offs to all hot taps apart from my en suite which comes off the combi for the constant 20l/min shower. the heating is under floor with oversized rads upstairs to run at 55deg. Has outside weather comp and opentherm internal controls. Hw...

Yes really, it has been opened up to others but mostly sold in Scotland by Mr Central Heating. It’s called the combi exclusive when sold through most other outlets.

You in Scotland? Would love to know the fitter but probably against page rules putting up his company name.

It’s built for MR central heating as it’s the cheap base combi

That’s the bit that says 24kw on it

Jesus that prv is rough and should have a compression fitting not soldered.

Flap is missing :LOL: Wonder why:whistle:

They are all 24kw to heat. It’s the hot water delivery that changed with higher outputs not the heating. Couldn’t tell you warranty but only 12yr warranty is for vogue max by accredited installer

Or water dripping onto switch from flue

L3 is no flow thermistor fault. This could be pump, plate hex or main hex. L5 is return thermistor fault. But could be due to engineer disconnecting stat at some point as boiler stores fault codes. if they fitted and maintained it from new (and you haven’t drained rads for decorating etc) then...

What readings did you get on your FGA and gas rate after putting boiler back together?