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Looks about right, don't forget to put a DPC in at 150 above ground. I think the Piers should be adequate, but if you want bigger then put a couple of blocks in at 90° to form a 440 square pier (including the wall thickness) If you do this then fill the void with concrete and maybe stick a few...

Velux do windows rated down to 10°. I also spotted some Spanish roof tiles rated to the same slope, Planum by La Escandella. I am thinking about converting our conservatory into a 'sun-room' but can't get much over 11°

Get some "geotextile" terram or similar water permeable membrane. As it's for paving you could probably get away with using weed control fabric. Dig out any real soft spots and fill them with some stone, then lay the fabric and put your Type 1 down over that, it will stop the stone mixing into...

If you want to model stuff, use google sketchup.

I knocked it up in a package called ProStructures. I design steel signalling structures for the Rail industry as a living. Yes it has 11, if it ties to the house or similar at an end, that pier can be left off.

Expansion at every other Pillar I think. I was thinking 6m crs as per the joints but you need them at ~3 m crs so Start with a Pillar/wall/Pillar/wall. Joint. Pillar/Wall/Pillar./wall Joint, repeat, last bay will be Pillar/wall/pillar/wall/Pillar, slightly longer to get your 28m. Panels (I...

I would go shorter - at 28m you will need 6 pillars at either spacing. The pillars can be built up in any bond you like really, the expansion joints need a brick tie to bridge them - the tie will be "debonded" on one side to allow the joint to move as the blockwork expands/contracts, but will...

Blockwork expansion joints are every 6m max, I would suggest you place them at the side of your pillars. If you use a channel system for the ties you can then step the wall at these locations irrespective of the coursing.

If you are pilot drilling - why not use the "eye" screws used for net curtains?

"good paractice" on stairs is to make any landing at least as long as the stair width, so extend the stair tread at the point you wish and then build your new stiars off the side. It is better to keep all the risers and goings on a stair the same even after a change of direction, as uneven...

Your builder was telling you the truth, you need to get below any sort of topsoil. A gravity retaining wall needs a solid base, so a concrete footing is as good as any to ensure local settlement will not cause a failure. Whichever system you are using the manufacturer will have guidelines to...

Aquapanel is completely unaffected by water - but have you considered the modern insulation backing boards - they are both unaffected by water and waterproof when sealed at the joints - effectively tanking the area around the shower. look at...

Looking at your location I assume this is some sort of remote camera set-up Again assuming that it's not subject to the local equivalent of UK's building regulations then I would suggest the following; make the base a little wider - 1.5m each way and say 1.0m thick. Normally column...

Unless they are exceptionally noisy the addition of additional treads and risers will damp out a lot of noise. I put oak treads & risers over the top of our old existing timber stairs (glued and nailed). They are now quieter and don't squeak either. Obviously being a hardwood stair it is louder...

Richard. In an ideal world it would be a perfect seal. The rafters date back to 1950 when the house was built and they are all bowed, curved and warped to some degree or another. I did seal the biggest of the gaps with expanding foam and taped up as much as possible, but it isn't 100%...

A few years ago we sorted our loft for storage. We put kingspan between rafters and then lined it with the foil bubble wrap stuff. I agree that it doesn't do anything for the insulation, but it is a good vapour barrier/wind shield, and very reflective so the loft is bright and stuff is easy to...

I have had a few loads from these people http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk

Now you have given me an idea, I have one of those already - a pukka one for diamond core drilling through tiling (wetroom conversion last year), it would be a simple matter to adapt it for this.

all good ideas, I'll let you know how I get on. It's all part of refurbishing our stairs, I need to get the new treads and risers fitted (over the old) first, but I should get it sorted at the weekend, hopefully.

OK thanks for all that, food for thought - I can make a few trial cuts on the shortest one I need. I will try a pipe cutter first and see if I can file or swage the cut to accept the end fixing, it will be the cleanest cut. I have found a draper blade that is labelled metal cutting, we'll...