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Grappling with a little project and having a headache with a window..... I am putting a little window (building regs fire escape size 600mm wide x 750mm tall) in the gable end of a single storey loft conversion - the room is tiny, 1.7m wide with vertical walls just 1.2m running into skeelings...

I am in the middle of a project that includes a little bit of drylining - I have some plumbing run on the surface of a bare brick internal wall and am going to be drylining this wall to A) cover the plumbing and B) finish the wall. When drylining an internal wall, do I still need a vapour...

I have to make a straight connection between two plastic plumbing pipes - one of the pipes is 15mm JG Speedfit, the other 22mm Hepworth and they need joining together with a joint that has the lowest probability of leaking (the pipes are buried in a roof crawl space).... So I am thinking...

I can't buy an off-the shelf door lining the right size to fit an aperture in my old house... its really low and narrow (like 5ft x 2ft) but the wall is thick... So, I am thinking of buying some of this...

I have recently acquired a table to go in the kitchen and perform general family duties. Its lovely (IMHO) being an old one full of character and with the top made from just 2 really wide planks with a thin one joining them together - I think its pine, but am not very good at identifying old...

As topic really.... have solid wood tops fitted in the kitchen and I have solid wood upstands to cover the expansion gap/finish the join at the wall at the back. Can I glue these to the wall using silicone sealer? or is there a better product? Reason I ask is that I will be running a bead of...

I am a little bit baffled... I am currently fitting a Franke tap like this:- http://www.sinks-taps.com/item-7424-AVERON_Pull_Out_Kitchen_Tap.aspx which is being fitted onto a standard stainless sink. I have fitted taps before and am au fait with the whole securing of the threaded stud & tails...

When fitting a Belfast sink undermounted - I know you normally allow a 10mm overlap of worktop over the edge of the Belfast bowl at the back and sides, but how do you normally treat the front face? Should that come flush with the front edge of the worktop? or should the sink protrude beyond the...

We are currently in the middle of an extension which includes a new kitchen. All the electrics are being done by a qualified electrician to normal building regs. but he is off site at the moment and un-contactable. The kitchen fitters are fitting the kitchen cabinets and we are putting some...

I am about to put a water softener in and see it needs two 'outlets' - one for the drain when regenerating and one for the overflow from the brine tank in case there is ever a problem. The instructions call for the overflow to go out through an outside wall and oveflow to atmosphere, but I...

I have a thread going in the Plumbing section here:- //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=263682 where it looks like there may be some issues for building control. Would anybody care to have a look and offer an opinion please? There are pictures on page 2 to illustrate...

We have the builders back in at the moment and the builder's plumber has been doing first fix..... I am noticing things that don't seem 100% to me and am wondering if I am just being anal or if I need to start making a fuss. For example:- running pipes in the floor to ceiling void meant going...

As topic really... how would you normally go about sealing natural stone tiles for use in a shower enclosure? Should they be taken out of the box, sealed and left to dry, then fixed to the wall, grouted and sealed again? OR take them out of the box, fix them, seal them, let them dry, grout...

We are about to tile the floor in a small en-suite - about 3.2m long by 1.2m wide with a 1.2m shower enclosure at the end (so 2m by 1.2m of tiled floor). The room is essentially a strip - door at one end opposite the shower, accessed by walking past the basin and wc...... so its all pretty...

I am extending my house and I have 8 sheets of 90mm Celotex board (which was orignally going to be laid on the floor slab) spare. I have no floors or ceilings at the moment, just the open floor joists and exposed roof rafters (the roof is tiled and weatherproof) and I got to thinking that it...

Are there any appreciable drawbacks to fitting an AAV rather than having an open vent pipe on a soil stack? Reason being.... the architect 'missed' the provision of a soil stack in our extension. I have worked out a way of including one, but it means a tortuous run of soil pipe through the roof...

Like an a*se I managed to fold over and kink the MDPE water mains pipe poking out from the oversite... :oops: It has striaghtened out OK, but left a witness mark on the pipe as you would expect. Should I be cutting the pipe back to below the kinked point to maintain integrity? or is it...

Any ideas how I go about this? Essentially I have a new block built chimney, inside which is a concrete ring liner backfilled with vermiculite. The 'liner' terminates at a concrete 'register plate' about 1.5m off the ground, which incorporates a lintel and forms the rectangular fireplace opening...

Building an extension with a lean-to porch in a conservation area..... all the rest of the house and the extension is built and tiled with Redland Heathland concrete plain tiles or traditional clay tiles. We have come to rough out the dimensions for the porch as the next stage to discover that...

Quick question, for various reasons it looks like we need to increase the thickness of the floor on the oversight in our extension. Originally it was going to be 150mm - 100mm cellotex board with 50mm screed. It now looks like it will be nearer 172mm + the thickness of floor tiles - 20mm Newton...