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It goes from cutout to meter then up to the Tesla gateway. Then down to Henley blocks which split to the EV supply and a fused 100A switch which the goes to the house CU. Hopefully isolating at the gateway will allow it to be changed out...

I will keep looking to find a decent brand. Struggling though as I might be searching the wrong terms

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4946310-32a-double-pole-2-module-b-curve-10ka-30ma-type-a-mini-rcbo Are MCG a decent brand?

Hopefully. It feeds from the meter in to a Tesla power wall gateway. Looks like isolating at the gateway will remove the power. Are the 4mm(?) cables from the Henley's to this unit OK as they are essentially fused by the 100A cutout?

My quick Google said it was type B but that wasn't on the manufacturers website. Schneider - Multi 9 - MGN19767 - DCP H Vigi - 32a 30mA Type B Double Pole RCBO New Checked there was power in at the top and nothing coming out the bottom with a meter. Test switch doesn't work either. Any other...

Hi, This type B RCD has failed. No power coming out even though it's on. The test button also doesn't work. It feeds an EV outlet. There doesnt appear to be an easy to find replacement? Can anyone assist with a replacement part? Also the wires coming off the tail splitters are 4mm but sleeved...

You can measure the angle with your phone on the vaulted ceiling just to confirm. Either a level app or measure on IOS

Doesn't really matter what you use if its an intercom. Just check the continuity before burying it. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CXSM315.html

Wouldn't do without mine for the cheap overnight rates. My month electric average is 9p/kWh and gas is 4.15p/kWh. They can also be a dumb meter if the smart meter doesn't communicate... I see lots of people complaining of inaccurate bills due to a meter person reading/entering the digits...

Tight and tape it all together for a vapour barrier. Assume you have an airgap between the top of PIR and felt?

When it takes the export the hybrid will see it as a load if its on the load side of the CT. Hence you need an export offset on the diverter with a hybrid inverter or wire its supply in between the CT and meter so it is not seen as a load. There will be no issues with a non hybrid inverter.

Yes but....It will drain the battery if the inverter can see it as a load. Hence you need an export offset? Doesn't look like it has one...

Can you set an export offset on these? If not ideally you want these wired in between your CT and meter if you have a battery otherwise it can cause battery drain issues.

Remove one and look at the back?

Do you have temp sensors on the flow and return? Get some fish tank temp sensors and stick them on if not. Make sure the boiler is not going in to anti cycle mode as the UFH will not draw much heat away. You may need a buffer tank or radiator on the UFH loop if this is the case.

Do you have backdraught vent on the toilet extract? Could it be the radiator leaking if it only happens in winter? Do you have a closed loop system?

How sure are you that it is condensation rather than a leaking pipe? For condensation to happen you need humidity with something cold. Your steels are all internal? Why would there be humidity in the floor void?

Scratch out the figure on the vehicle ID plate...

Go to a wholesalers and ask for a rough service 100W lamp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eveready-Rough-Service-Lamp-Pearl-100w-Bayonet/dp/B0058T87P8

Turkey condemns UK and USA but bombs the crap out of Syria and Iraq on the same night