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Hi, I am planning a loft conversion in my 1920's gabled semi. The roof is traditional cut roof with purlins spanning from gable to party wall with a single diagonal prop at mid span onto the central masonry spine wall. I am planning to install new floor joists front to back designed to...

I have got some sandstone paving slabs that I would like to lay over my existing concrete heath. The slabs are quite rustic and have irregular top and bottom surfaces. Can anyone give me any advise on the best method of laying, tile adhesive or mortar bed? I've done a bit of a search online...

I have recently opened up between the kitchen and dining room, which involved knocking through part of the rear cavity wall of our 1920's two up two down terrace. In doing so I discovered that the cavity was filled to approx. 200-400mm above floor level of loose mortar, which must have...

I have made a slight balls up. I have fixed a new 12.5mm thick plasterboard ceiling to the vaulted roof of my kitchen, however I did not have counter battens fixed so all edges do not have a timber batten behind. I removed the old plasterboard ceiling to insulate the roof. The insulation...

I have recently had some electrical ring circuits extended and new sockets installed resulting in significant areas of existing plaster needing patch repairs. Can anyone suggest the best plaster to use for the job. I have been told that thistle is a good brand so was thinking of thistle...

I am knocking down a wall and whilst I usually use needles on props, in this instance due to services/ head restrictions, I am using strongboys on props. I have never used strongboys before and when I crank up the props, the plate doesn't stay level and due to the eccentric load the prop...

I have recently removed the plasterboard off my vaulted single storey lean-to extension to install some insulation and have discovered that all of the rafters where supported on the wall plate at the eaves are damp. Having done some investigation it looks like the felt has sagged at the...

I have installed 2 No. beams over an extended door opening (one under each leaf of cavity) and would like some opinions on the best form of dry packing between the top of the beams and the masonry. The gap varies between 25-30mm up to 70mm where I have had to knock out some extra bricks...

Can anyone tell me if extending an existing ring circuit needs to be done by a qualified electricitian (who can self certify) or is notifiable under building regs? or can it be done by a competant DIY'er? The existing ring circuit is on a B32 MCB, 2.5mm2 cable with 5 double sockets + 1 single...

Can anyone provide any recommendations for an alternative corrosion protection to a steel beam placed below ground (other than traditional concrete surround). I am installing a steel 'picture frame' to support an external load bearing wall and I would rather not have to concrete surround the...