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I'll start by saying I am not qualified so will not be attempting a repair myself. I am however a nosey engineer so quite keen to understand what the problem is. Background: Gas stove (model 8613) which gets fairly infrequent use. Pilot light works fine but when the main burner is switched...

Ah, you've jumped to the wrong conclusion. As I say what is needed is clarity as to what should be in situ based on current standards, I am guessing a gas safe engineer should be able to help.

Long story which I'll not go into here. Suffice to say we need to understand what type or pipe should be used. Thanks

Looking for a little advice. Are there any regs (scotland) regarding the type of pipe, ie pvc coated or not to be run under the floor to supply a gas fire? First floor so no issues with damp/cold. I'm guessing best practice is to go with pvc coated but need to understand if non costed copper is...

I have just popped up to my sisters place and we can't get the aga to fire up. The pilot light comes on okay but when I turn the gas valve counter clockwise the burner doesn't come on as per usual. Is there anything simple I can look for or do I need to call out the aga guy? Any help greatly...

great, thanks, will up the value as you suggest. I have the setback at around 6 or 7 degrees lower. Yes we have only the one controller so effectively no internal stat and the boiler relies on the correct curve if I understand correctly.

Hi, looking for a little help setting up the parameters on the weather comp on a Viessmann 200-W BOILER. I appreciate there will be some trial and error with the process, so I am really just looking for some hints and tips, base setting to start with etc. The house is a Victorian, stone...

just redeemed myself. Figured it out!!

Hi, I feel a bit daft asking thi question........ I have purchased some Henley series 7 cutouts (54132-04) for a small project. I also purchased the allen key/ pin and plug remover. For the life of me, I cant see how I remove the pin and plugs from the cutout outlets using the tool (which is...

I'm angling after the 200, given the additional, albeit small savings thentempmcomp will give. The house doesn't have drafts so I am thinking provided we dial im the correct comp curve , it should be okay? Maybe I wrong or just sold on the idea of weather comp.......

Okay, I've narrowed it down to a Viessmann or a Viessmann. Either the *100-W with basic weather comp (prob useless in my house as it's an old sandstone property so leaks heat) and 7 day wireless stat OR * 200-W with weather comp. Have been advised by Viessmann that I dont need a stat with...

From a supply perspective, WB is cheaper by £100 when compared to the 200-W. Both are being spec'd with the weather compensation controller which apparently can offer additional savings on annual spend. Viessmann make a big deal about thiscontroller, WB don't. I am still awaiting some quotes...

Viessmann have suggested to go withthe 100-W as I dont have under floor heating, solar etc, just plain old radiators..... However from reading a few other posts, would the weather compensator on the 100-W work with a relatively poorly insulated house, I have heard the 200-W and associated more...

I have a shortlist of 3 manufacturers/boilers: 1. Worcester Bosch - 38CDI Greenstar 2. Viessmann 100-W or 200-W, not sure which (will add weather compensator thingie) 3. Broag Avanta - 35kW or 39kW I am leaning towards the WB or Viessmann, so just looking for those in the know for...

Hi, I am going to convert part of our external garage into an insulated utility area. I have a couple of questions, Floor, wrap bases of joists in DPC, level and bolt down to concrete floor. Fill void between joists with insulation, leave end facing into garage open for ventilation. The...

redherring2, yup noticed that when I read the marley site last night. Have now changed to a Bitumen underfelt. Thanks for the advice

picked up some marley roof underlay today - in my mind it is easier to work with than felt so hopefully I will make a better job of it!

how about something like a breathable membrane: http://www.screwfix.com/p/protect-a1-roofing-underlay-1m-x-45m/31795 or http://www.screwfix.com/p/rica-medium-grade-roofing-membrane-each/39544

Quick question, building a log cabin at present. The roof is 19mm tongue and groove, Kingspan Tr27 and 6mm external ply. I have bitumen roofing shingles, but would like to understand if I should put some roofing underlay on before laying the shingles? Thanks for the help.

no need for bonding so assume 6mm okay. Glad I've been educating myself on all this as I've noticed by CU in the house has no RCD protection. So will be calling in a spark to add a split load board or maybe add RCBO's if space allow.s