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you can get copper unvented cylinders , maybe thats what was already there , they are slightly less pressure than SS is all

it wasnt a serious suggestion that he put a secondary pump on the rad loop... :lol: but u could , and if you did , youd connect to the primary loop with.... 'closely spaced tees' somebody els mentioned 'closely spaced tees' my point was more that these actually do have a useful purpose...

'closely spaced tees' are good...if ya put a pump on it 8) works a bit like a low loss header then :P

10mm comp tee , my bad , thought it looked like the pipe on the branch was fatter (15mm) Chris

i dont think its just an olive , as charnwood says its a 10mm valve and 10 mm pipe into a 15 comp tee. there must be a reducing set in the tee , its usually 2 parts crushed together with the pipe inside you also have one of theses sets in the bottom of your tee so try not to disturb this...

pump curves can confuse some ppl for some strange reason.... might be easier to imagine a tap running from a pump....slow it down and pressure will build up in the pipework...so pressure is dependant on flow to a certain extent Chris

if you are considering pumping the whole house , you do need a minimum of 50gal cold water storage , they dont always put a bigger tank in when they fit a small shower pump so if its not there now it will be needed for whole house pump personally , if it was at the stage of a new twin pump id...

if your meter will be sited in the same place as before , then its not a move you need to pay your supplier to do you do need an RGI if you want to remove the meter and make safe the supply whilst you do your work in this area and this is what id suggest that you do im sure some will...

as long as your PRV will adjust low enough to match your hot pressure then yes it will if you use the pressure equalising valve it will adjust itself to match pressure , this will give you exact equal pressure all the time...you probably wont get this from just PRV on cold PRV will...

if you can get to the pipework under the bath , you can fit a pressure equalising Valve. http://www.bathtek.com/pressure_equalising_values.htm it will reduce the higher pressure pipe to the same pressure of the lower this should stop the cold going back up the hot when its mixing...

telford tempest 500l unvented comes with 28mm PRV (28mm cylinder connections) and will run 3 showers for under £1000 as long as your supply is good enough id use the AtagQ series system boiler(s) , but there are quite a few other makes you could use Chris

its not even the same effect , putting bypass valve in makes system much worse than just simply removing the head where room stat is Chris

yes , but it doesnt belong there listen to andygasman2010 , this is what you need to do you dont want to stop your room stat from turning your boiler off by trv in this area shutting down first this will cause boiler to cycle on boiler stat through your intended bypass...

it is not that your flow is down...it is that your diaphram is now worn and needs more flow to move it . your not getting this much flow through some taps when they are turned on by themselves. open another tap and you are increasing flow past the diaphram , hence it starts working you can...

just use a washing machine stand pipe and 40mm pipe if the soil pipe is vented close it wont syphon the trap if it does syphon the trap you could use one of these http://www.pulsardirect.co.uk/installation/plastic/40mm-anti-syphon-valve.html anywhere after the stand pipe and before...