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I'm out

I'm out

better but not perfect as said by others you need to fix the damp on the back wall first as any thing you do will be wrecked in short order by the damp

I am replacing a plastic roof with wood sheeting and rubber roofing on a lean to structure 5m wide by 3m deep whats size rafters do you suggest and at what centres and OSB or ply and what thickness this is on a very small budget for an OAP thank for any advice Max

Wrong section :oops:

My Advice Don't even try to fix it! It's a fire door! replace it

I am with the others, go and speak to them I have been the noisy neighbour :oops: come home from a day at work and try to get as much done as possible not realising how late it was until the neighbours hammered on the door screaming about having put up with the noise for hours I...

Rather than going to the expense of covering the whole work top why not get several large glass work top savers and cover them from underneath with your cartoon using a waterproof varnish?

I will quite often be found cooking a shoulder of pork on my barrel bbq or a whole chicken Never served burnt or raw food and never have less than 15 people turn up for a bbq at my place but then the bar may have something to do with it :D as well

I would use lining paper then paint as normal

not really sure what to suggest :? you could try the steam cleaner but that may take the artex off as well or you could try scrubbing with sugar soap, leave to dry then re paint

sounds like the ceiling was greasy and that's why the paint has done this Did you sugar soap / clean the ceiling before painting?

I think you need some thing along the lines of this http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/products/seals_for_doors_and_windows/threshold_and_draught_seals/4487/exitex_slimline_rain_deflector_and_drip_bar/479922 that bit of wood added to the bottom of the doors isn't really helping at all

That's a much better idea :oops:

does the sill have a fall on it away from the doors? it looks very flat to me I would suggest a bigger weather strip that will shed the water further away from the door with a bead of silicone along the top But don't try to adjust the doors until they are completely dried out or you may...

you could try bending a piece of square section to the curve you need keeping it square and then router the edge to suit

It is very unlikely that you will get them out without destroying the door as they have two barbed lugs that push in to holes either side of the main hinge hole and they are not designed to come out If I had to get them out I would use a hacksaw blade and cut the lugs off leaving them in the door

may be a torx bit like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=torx+55&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=26265473211&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=s&hvrand=20181811671903173655&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_59shp8bc3m_b

Why didn't you fix it before you moved out? :?: Bit of no more nails in each corner would have put the fan back and tighten up the bolts would have fixed the door I think a £100 is fair as it's not just the parts to fix but also time and effort It wasn't like that when you have to place...

http://www.oakdalefencing.co.uk/display-product.php?ref=297&currentpageref=199 I would use these type of godfathers and proper arris rail http://www.wickes.co.uk/arris-rail-75x75x100mmx24m-pk4/invt/543317/ if you use square cut rails they don't shed water properly so rot