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Thanks all. I removed the silicone around the bottom of the basin mate washer and managed to tighten the backnut a tiny bit more (1/6th turn perhaps). Now it looks like this and the waste seems to be water tight. For piece of mind is there anywhere I should add some extra silicone below the...

Turns out it's weeping! When closed, it holds water in the basin, so at the top it's tight. But when the waste is open, it weeps around the backnut. Thinking about it, I might have put too little silicone around the threads where the conical washer ended up, though the basin mate guidelines...

Thanks basin mate was on my original list anyway. I just installed it with basin mate and extra silicone as Madrab described. Will wait until tomorrow morning for testing.

Lots of different techniques. I still wonder which one is best when replacing something that was siliconed in.

Plumbers mait above and below the basin, or just below?

I need to fit a new waste to a basin after removing an old one that was fitted (poorly) with silicone. I removed all lumpy bits of silicone and most of the the finer bits with silicone remover, but there is still some silicone bits left that I can't get out. What are my best options for getting...

Thanks everyone! Last night I isolated the radiator (like Madrab said) and replaced the blanking plug and bleedvalve. It seems to have gone well! But it turns out there was no O-ring on the plug (as ianmcd guessed), but some white paste (set hard), see photo. Is that still common to fail (and...

Thanks, good to know I should not worry too much about the radiator's main body! (And you are right about the other end - last year I smeared some LX sealer around the outer ring but will now try to swap the bleeding valve too)

My radiator is a bit corroded around the blanking plug, see photo - flaking paint, green and white flakes. Do I need a new rad (soon? ) or is there a (temp) fix? Lately there is some air in the system and I found this as the potential source.

A few weeks ago I changed the handle set on a UPVC door, replacing a worne-out pair of Hoppe handles (with snip) with exactly the same Hoppe handle set. I re-used the split spindle that was already in place. It all worked for a few weeks, but this morning the outside handle did not do its job...

Thanks. I looked up a video how to wire it, easy enough, especially now that NTF5c is just clip in without a tool. My only worry is that if I install a new socket and it looks new, but I still needed to call in an Openreach engineer they might ask who installed it...

I discovered that the BT Master Socket has a loose test socket - it slipped further backwards than it should be and I can pull it inside the housing forwards but it does not stay in position. Any tipps on how to fix this, in a way that I can have good connection to the faceplate? Background...

Indeed in Akerlof's Market the asymmetric information is such that the buyers don't want to spend as much on an old car as the average seller wants to charge, as they think why would the guy be selling it if it was a good car. So the two parties won't trade because the buyer does not have the...

Very interesting dissertation! Are your conclusions based on a theoretical model such as Akerlof's Market for Lemons?

That's an interesting point. I don't know how the impeller works but if it is magnetic it might be indeed what I am describing. When I turned it by hand it turned more easily in one direction than the other though. Would that go against the magnetic theory?

Thanks. I clean the drawer and the tube when it overflows, every other month or so. I was just wondering if there was a connection to the pumps as it happens so often. The machine seems to be draining well though. I think I will monitor another few days before looking at the impeller again.

I cleaned the filter on our (integrated) Beko washing machine. Some long lint/strings/gunk was on the impeller and I pulled it out with long nose pliers. When I turn the impeller it doesn't turn smoothly but it's a bit "jumpy". Is that normal? (I guess there might still be some long stuff...

I think the plaster is bumpy and paint is just on top. You can try sanding but it might be hard going.

Certain tasks can get automated, others can't as they aren't repetitive enough but every time a bit different. Lots of production and clerical office jobs have disappeared due to technical change and more will follow, but other jobs are springing up too.

I got it changed. Wolsey did say they had some faulty batches. Does it take time for the optimal stop function (I activated that function) on the replacement to learn, or should it work right away (it didn't switch off early last night, as I had expected given the old one's behaviour)?