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Sorry John, l know what pressure it should be at. I was curious as to whether the vessel had any charge in it? After reading Harrys last post I think he meant relief valve and not reducing valve. Burst and flat vessels are by far the most common cause of relief valves being activated and...

Are you sure the pressure reducing valve was letting by? Normally when these things go wrong, the symptoms are low pressure. Out of curiosity, what pressure was on the expansion vessel when you de-pressurised the cylinder?

The old F24 was similar to the Modena SE. Bi thermal heat exchanger so no diverter. Cold in to the main hex and HW out the other end. If the heating hasn’t been on for while then the pump is probably just needing a tap with a hammer. Another thing to check is the power plug going into the pump...

I know it might seem obvious, but did you try resetting the old one? The R/S button left of the HW select switch.

The chimney shouldn’t get that hot. If anything, the further away from the heat source, the cooler the masonry should get. Do you get the chimney swept annually, does it have a metal liner? I suppose your sweep would have highlighted a problem if there was one. On the mdpe pipe conundrum, I’d...

Sorry to cast a shadow on your heat recovery contraption, but if the chimney breast in the attic is getting to 40°C, does this not give you any cause for concern?

Nothing against combi boilers, it's the drivel that's being spouted I'm referring to.

It must be contagious

If the wall is being tiled, I'd just drill into the tile and use a rawl plug with a bit of sticks like Shiite on the back of the bracket. Hung loads like that and none have fell off. Well, none that I've heard about.

That's weird Ian, I've never seen the throttle type valve on a vision. It's always been the 3 way type. If the fault has only happened after BG had serviced it, perhaps it's just the flow rate needing adjusted. It could be the plate thou the way you've described how the boilers behaving. The...

Make sure the switch for the immersion heater isn't switched on. The thermostat on the heater might not have an over heat cut off switch which would Explain the kettling noise. If the problem is at the stove make sure any air control thermostats aren't jammed open. Bits of coal cinders and...

Calvados, do you have your gas appliances serviced? Fitting CO alarms is a good idea but regular servicing, particularly on open flues appliances is essential.

Your systems either got a big leak somewhere or it's drawing air in through the vent pipe.

http://www.hetas.co.uk/find-installer/

Check the gauze filter in the return isolator. Also, as above.

The plastic coating only acts as an insulation and can be removed. 10mm is plyable to bend without the bending machine. If the pipe work is below the floor then just bend it over your knee. If it's going to be visible above the floor then just peel back and remove the insulation and use the mini...

Take the grey wires from the 2 ports into one side of what you refer to as the jumper lead. Connect the orange wires from the two ports into the other connection on the jumper lead (link wire). You'll need to power the valve motors (brown wires) through prog/stat switches. Does the boiler have a...

You need to check for voltage on the pump first.

The first guy sounds like a bit of a chancer. If there's no reason why the boiler can't be moved says enough. It's your house, and it's what you want. He's looking for the easiest solution with maximum profit.

The ball cock on the feed and expansion tank might have jammed or the cold feed pipe could be blocked.