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Hi, Im having my fully integral garage converted into a habitable room, im having it done to building regulations. The garage door has a concrete pad just in front of it, i asked building control what depth the foundations need to be for the front wall and window and they said ideally 900mm...

Even if its had the cavity wall insulation done? So ill need 100mm insulation on a double skinned cavity wall insulated wall? I havent seen any new builds do this? They are all dot and dab.....

The garage is fully integral, the external wall is part of the whole house and therefore has cavity wall insulation in it. Dot and dab on the cavity wall is what the rest of the house has Yes ceiling is already plasterboarded as there is a bedroom above it.

Yes i know, the work will still be completed within 7 days of labour though...... plastering will be last or close to last.

No thats an additional £400 from the council. North of england if that makes any difference. One week yes, its literally bricking up 2 walls and window fitting plus floor raising and some minor electric/plumbing work, not really a big job?

Is there any builders who can tell me if this quote seems a bit excessive? The guys come reccomended and i never go for the cheapest option but i just feel its a bit excessive. Fully integral garage, fuseboard in there, main radiator on the opposite wall so plumbing relatively simple, ceiling...

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The middle hinge of my UPVC door is creaking once i open it to 90 degrees and further, as you pull it back in it creaks. The door has been installed about 2 months and has been okay til now. My only concern is, the door guys were useless and i ended up adjusting the bottom hinge sideways so...

Yes literally.

Across basically all my radiators in my house (apart from a newly installed large vertical one). At most it seems most radiators lose 5 degres maximum from flow to return. Most of my radiators are smallish, single pane, some with fins and some without. 10mm microbore pipework, system is 30...

But opening mine literally 1/16th of a turn seems to give it full flow.......

In an effort to balance my system i have been adjusting lockshields on all my rads. None of my rads have TRV's on them and the system is 30 years old (boiler is a combi and is 3 years old). Adjusting the lockshields on the rads has literally done nothing in terms of speed to heat the radiators...

Still running at 60 yes, well 61 as thats the temp the boiler suggests is most efficient for some strange reason.

Newly installed vertical radiator had issues from installation, took 45 minutes to fully heat and never really got as hot as i expected. Anyway i tried all the usual balancing, turning all other rads off and so on, nothing worked. Randomly one of my other radiators now makes loud cracking...

Moved the bottom hinge laterally so the mitre lines lined up and its secure now

I think the door just needs moving slightly laterally to the right? The right hand corner is where its looser so i assume if it moves more into that space it will be more secure? As the locking cams will sit better in the strike plates?

Is that what would require adjustment at the hinge end or is it something completely out of my realm? One thing i have noticed, the top corner of the door mitre line is SLIGHTLY off with the mitre line of the frame.

The bottom 2 of these feel a bit loose, is there anyway at all to tighten the bar with the mushroom on to the other bar as can be seen in the picture? Its almost like there should be a washer between the mushroom and bar, its not tight against the bar compared to the top 2 mushrooms?

Hinges adjustable yes but the hinge side is well sealed and i couldent really increase compression anymore .