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Yep, no harm in trying that. I think I cleaned one once using just a cleaning strip - similar to that of sand paper

You’re welcome for the help. You need the receiver, not the thermostat, if you can access the wiring behind, to get you by until you replace the thermostat you can join the 2 wires (we’ll tell you which before you commit).

Likely, can’t see it being anything else

You would have the same issue regardless of which boiler is fitted as you didn’t replace the thermostat and the previous person let the batteries leak.

Cover lifts/slides up. However I think you feel uncomfortable. The time switch is what you have been using (constant control). Can you access the wiring behind the Salus?

You can either: 1: remove the boiler cover and link terminals 1 and 2, then use the time switch 2: undo receiver, link com and NO and use the time switch

Maybe post a photo of the thermostat and receiver as per @gas112

Looks high enough to me

Unless you have 2 thermostats, you don’t have zonal heating

Using the time clock switch I’m guessing

Yes, but if it was left in the on position, you turning it off might have then broken that circuit. As a temporary solution you could link the thermostat out a the boiler end or at the receiver end (if you’re certain it’s wireless), or press the override if it has one.

If the Combi does have zonal heating.

It will still have been part of the circuit unless the wiring was altered?

No, as per Tony, should be drained out.

What has your installer said and or tested?

It depends on how it’s connected could be opentherm or could be mains/extra low voltage. Opening the cover on your boiler should be checked for safety afterwards. Esi do a wifi stat if you like the existing? ESRTP5WiFi. Failing that you need a battery operated Wi-Fi one or opentherm one.

If one was a cleaner, this should have been drained out and then inhibitor added.

It looks like the pale blue goes in with a darker blue - if you can figure out what that’s for, then you figure out whether it’s a neutral or not.

Kind of. I think one of the black is hot water off going to the grey wire. See if this attachment makes any sense to you

The wiring Center (white box adjacent to the Honeywell motorised valve) can you safely remove that and take a photo of the wiring inside there? Also the wiring hanging out of the bottom could do with neatening.