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I want to knock out the chimney breast, just in the ground floor room, leaving the second floor breast and the stack above. I also want any support to be hidden within the floor void. The room is approx 4.5m wide, the external wall on one side is 320mm thick and the internal wall on the other...

Looking to purchase some new windows to fit myself, wanting Rehau frames. Most local fabricators only sell to the trade (which I get), anyone know where I can buy some from? Based in East Yorkshire but happy to purchase from anywhere that delivers nationwide.

Detached house, hipped roof. I want to remove the chimney breasts in the ground/first floor rooms as they're no longer used and just take up space. However I'd like to retain the stacks on the roof, as a feature of the property (built around 1880) Pretty straight forward on a gable end, however...

I'm about to start insulating our external walls, internally. I plan to use the "warm batten" method. I.e. sticking PIR to the wall and then mechanically fixing battens through it. The walls I'm tackling first and back to brick, so far from straight/plumb/even, which is complicating matters. Do...

Looking to attach 50mm PIR through 75mm battens to our 215mm solid brick wall. So looking for a conc screen at least 250mm long. Can anyone recommend any?

I'm planning to install internal wall insulation, with a focus on airtightness, so plan to do entire walls, slab to roof, and cold bridging. The biggest concern I have right now is the 1st floor void and moisture. Our house is solid brick and the joists are pocketed into the wall. So if I don't...

I'm starting to think about improving our "thermal envelope". Our floor is already a new slab within 100mm PIR below the screed and 25mm PIR up stands (for the underfloor heating). Solid brick walls, no signs of damp/moisture ingress, the majority of the brickwork is already pointed in lime...

We're thinking of replacing our current bow windows with something more traditional, narrower and taller sash. To do so we'll need to cut some of the brickwork top and bottom and infill some of the brickwork on both sides. It's a 9" solid brick wall and needs doing in lime mortar. I know lime...

I've noticed some cracking to our house's rear wall. It seems to start from around 50cm up and probably travels another 1.5m in a fairly continuous line. Anyone know what this could be? I'm waiting for a local builder, that we've used in the past, to get back to me to arrange a time for him to...

I have an old, approx 5", soil pipe that runs below a solid slab that I need to fill/block/seal before laying insulation etc. I can only see 4" expanding plugs at Toolstation which aren't big enough. The other end of the pipe connects to the mains sewerage pipe below ground level, which I...

Our floor detail is to be 100mm reinforced concrete on top of 200mm EPS insulation, with UFH pipes ran in the concrete. If I was using screed, I'd attached the stud wall sole plates to the concrete, before fitting the insulation, pipes and screeds, but because the concrete itself will be our...

Block and beam has been installed over our basement at ground floor level, with a brick wall built to separate the new B&B floored room and what was the access to the basement, now just a cupboard under the stairs. There are a couple of telescopic air vents under the B&B floor as per building...

We have TRVs on all but two rads upstairs; the bathroom towel rail and the landing rad, nearest the thermostat. When the new heating system was fitted, the rads don't seem to have been balanced at all - some rooms were getting warmer than others, the landing rad was getting warmer quicker than...

When we moved into our house we found the majority of the downstairs floor joists to be rotten, including the one the the flight of stairs up to the first quarter landing was resting on. The staircase was propped up whilst a new floor slab was laid and a new wooden frame built under the first...

We had a new water supply and heating system fitted a couple of weeks ago. 32mm MDPE into the house, straight into a Unvented Cold Water Group Set (after stop cock, drain etc), which I'm told is to regulate the hot and cold water to the same pressure, and then teed off for the rest of the house...

I'm running a new water supply. From the meter it will tee off; straight ahead for a garden supply and right for the house supply. I'm running 32mm MDPE from the meter, 25mm for the garden and 32mm into the house so I want to reduce "the straight" down to 25mm rather than on the 90 degree tee...

Architect has specified block and beam be installed over our cellar, which will become the floor for our new utility room. We don't mind losing the cellar to make the space more practical. The beams have been spec'd and will be ordered this week. Our builder's suggesting we could fit them DIY...

We’ve recently had a new concrete subfloor poured. It will be finished with insulation and then screed. When we had the concrete poured we had to suspend the staircase in the air so we could pour under it, it now needs resupporting from the floor. Should it be resupported directly against the...

Our house has an old lead water supply pipe on our side of the meter. We're going to replace it to get rid of the lead, but to also to hopefully improve the flow rate (currently only 10 l/m to the kitchen sink) as we want to install an unvented cylinder. We plan to run 32mm from our side of the...

We're replacing our existing suspended timber floor with a new solid floor. We plan to dig down to 485mm for the builder to build it up again in a couple of weeks. The final floor build up will be; 150mm MOT 1 25mm Sand Blinding DPM 150mm Concrete 100mm Insulation 60mm Screed The existing...