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As part of an ensuite refurb, I need to move the pipework to a towel rail - currently 10 mm plastic. This will mean channelling the wall again and obviously I don’t want to go to deep on this. Don’t like the idea of putting a plastic fitting in the channelled slot and so my initial thoughts were...

I need to cut into a boxed part of the wall downstairs to access some badly fitted plumbing from when the house was built,. I am wondering what the best approach is? The attached picture gives some idea of what I think maybe the best method, as in staying at least 1 inch away from the edges, to...

I’ve got a horrible feeling that the bath mixer tap I have purchased is not going to cover the holes completely in the bath and wonder what my options are. It’s too late to return the taps unfortunately. Just to complicate things slightly, each tap is Square as opposed to the more normal round...

With reference to the attached picture, if the adaptor is pushed all the way down then it is around 15mm below the top of the pipe, slightly exposing the rubber seal. Of course i can lift the adaptor up so that it is level, but wonder if this movement is an issue? TIA

With a traditional pipe bender, is there a minimum (parallel) offset that can be achieved over a distance of, say, 300mm? For example, could you achieve an offset of 10mm / 20mm / 30mm (and so on) over that distance? I know that benders are marked for 30° for lesser-offsets, but wonder if you...

I had to remove the original moisture board in my ensuite, and I’m about to replace it with good quality plywood. My question relates to whether it is necessary to leave a 10 mm gap around the small room (< 3m²)? If not, what gap is appropriate? TIA

I need to fit a towel rail using 10mm Speedfit pipe coming out of a block wall. I was going to use corner valves with 3-part adaptors (see pics),as the wall-to-centres distance is only 50mm’ish. The issue I am having is that the adapters are such a tight fit that they are shaving bits of...

Ignorant question time: Speedfit 10mm pipe will be coming out of a block wall that will be ultimately tiled and the wall-to-centre measurement for the towel rail is 57mm - 65mm. I’m thinking of using corner valves, with (2-piece) 15-to-10mm adaptors. My uncertainty, and hence question, is the...

I’ve removed an old 600 x 400 single rad from a small ensuite (3 m²) and hoping to replace it with a towel rail and wonder whether the new towel rail i’ve purchased is going to be powerful enough. Original rad spec’d at 1563 btus, but never had it turned up anywhere near maximum, but the towels...

In the middle of a bathroom refurb and need to replace existing radiator with a towel rail, but I am uncertain on the best approach to take. My first idea was to use the original (channelled) pipework along with (additional) chrome pipe and fittings, to compensate for the new position of the...

I note on John guest’s website that they state that their connectors can be used with compression joints as long as they are not shallow depth. It’s a a subjective statement and I’m not sure whether it will be OK in my scenario with the iso-valve i have purchased. The attached pictures show...

I need to attach to existing pipe in the floor and then come up behind bathroom units, which only afford 50mm of clearance. The attached picture is my first attempt, which is not permanent as the connection in the floor has been done using compression. I spent ages lining everything up and...

Need to do some piping for a thermostatic shower, and I am planning to use copper as the pipework will be in the stud wall. i started-out looking for WRAS approved pipe, but I couldn’t find any and so perhaps that is only relevant to fittings!? EN 1057 seems to be the specification to go for...

Realise this is an odd question, but I was searching around on the Internet today and I came across a comment from a plumber discussing verdigris caused by the teeth on Speedfit fittings; they are there if you look very closely! He reckoned it wasn’t that uncommon and provided pictorial...

My new basin arrived and i note that the tap hole is not quite round and wonder if this is a problem; haven’t currently got a tap to test it with. As per attached picture, the hole at its narrowest point is just under 34 mm. I wonder if this is going to be okay?

I am pondering on what height shower door to purchase, with the options being between 1.9m and 2m, and would appreciate peoples advice / experiences. I am 1.86m tall and was initially going to go with the 1.9m door, leaving the gap to the ceiling of 300mm. I’m starting to think though that there...

I am pondering on whether to buy a 6 mm or 8 mm shower door, to be fitted on a 2“ metal stud wall as found in most modern houses. The cause of my indecision is to do with the weight of the door on such flimsy (recessed) walls. I have currently got the studs exposed and I have added strengthening...

I have Floplast waste pipe and need to feed into the soilstack. Due to space restrictions (internal wall built over the top!) it will be easier to use an offset reducer, but Floplast only manufacture (solvent weld) reducers with the entry point in the centre. Obviously other manufacturers do...

Right next to my shower tray there is a 110 mm soil pipe and i need to feed-in the 40mm waste pipe. Being in a recess, once it is connected up it is virtually inaccessible without taking the tray back out again. :-/ My question relates to the best type of reducer to go with i.e. solvent weld or...

just out of curiosity, is there any reason not to use the cutter in the attached picture on solvent weld pipe? i’ve got guillotine-type cutters, but they tend to squash the pipe and it’s not easy to get a straight cut, or cut it at all for that matter!