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Hi, this unit has R290 in which is not currently covered by FGas regs. I have the tools required to commission it, vacuum pump & manifold etc, it's just this bend I'm concerned about. Hopefully this will make it clearer, here is (a very rough photoshopped -sorry) version of what I would like:

Hi, though not traditional plumbing my question does come down to bending pipe! I'm installing a split air con unit (one that doesn't need FGas certificate btw) The indoor unit has outlets at both ends of the unit for the pipes to emerge left or right Unfortunately for me, I need the opposite...

No sign of a lip at the front, the first pic shows the red/orange of the thin tile/brick things from above (sorry) going back as far as I can see (probably about 1/2 the depth of a brick.

We would like to replace the above window with a door. Sadly the door would need to be wider, but would only need to be another 1/2 brick to be about the min. width we'd require. The window is in an extension that was done in the 80s (I think, no earlier than 70s) - it is a cavity wall...

That's really helpful, thank you both, thorough answers, I appreciate your time. I will check if it's still connected to the manhole that's close by and take it from there. I was only planning connecting up an old sink in there for infrequent use so it wouldn't be the end of the world if it...

Thanks, so is it ok to replace with an air admittance valve and discharge water into it (in theory) if it's still connected? Can a plastic pipe be cemented in place of the lead or does it need an adaptor?

Thanks I'll take a look, the house is quite old (1900ish), so maybe it was an outside loo. The base looks ceramic, so if I removed the lead bit would a modern 110mm pipe fit in? and how would that best be connected with cement?

Hi, moved not so long back and have found this in the garage. It looks like an old soil pipe, just wondering if it is? and what the rectangular connector thing is on the top of it? Thanks in advance!

Thank you both. I guess it wouldn't be too effort much to run another cable at the same time. I'll take another look at that. Another quick question about the RM8 Relay module; can the outputs be programmed to activate when a zone (eg. single PIR) is triggered? Is this possible regardless of...

I am working out what I need for a fresh alarm install at home. Buildings consist of house and annex/garage, so I have decided on classing these as 2 distinct areas. The annex/garage is one physical building (2 rooms), I was hoping to run one cable from the main panel to a zone expander...

What about the flags? http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/science/space/9439047/American-flags-still-standing-on-the-Moon-say-scientists.html NASA's the source but others must be able to corroborate or disprove.

Amazing stuff roasty!!

I have recently purchased a vera edge and a few bits, I have to say I was a bit disappointed with how slow the interface was, especially the app (one function I wanted was to replace an old remote plug for a lamp which had stopped working). When you load the app it would take upwards of 15 / 30...

I currently have a metal shed (useless btw) on a concrete base measuring 8x10 feet. I am getting a wooden shed 10x12 feet so will need to extend the base. I am going to add another 4 feet to the 8feet side which will make the 10x12feet required. The shed comes with a base, but what should I...

Do you know what your square metre area is off hand?

Also whats the opinion on sub-base being MOT type 2 vs MOT type2 mixed with cement? One thought it needed to flex and the other thought it need to be rigid like footings to a house?

Thanks for your replies. rjm2k, you mean price was around £4300? noseall, the cheapest quote, the guy cam round in a car to quote, I've seen there board up on a drive they had done, they are marshalls listed, ltd company been around since 80s. The £7000 was a Nissan Pathfinder type...

I have a drive about 65m² (incl 1 manhole) that I want block paved. I am looking at marshalls drivesett tegula blocks. I have got 4 quotes and they come up as follows £8k - very very quick look, did not measure up £5.5k - didn't get a good feel for the person £7k - measured was...

At the bottom of the boiler, behind the plastic flap, there appears to be a plastic funnel which the condensate drops into freely (i.e. exposed to air), so in this case surely the condensate pipe thereafter is safe to be re-routed?

The overflow pipe (15mm?) went outside and was covered with 32mm waste which came from the bathroom and went into the stack.