15-60/130 pump details

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Too many other things on in the no-rain warm days. Anyway, in terms of progress on this, I made a suitable spanner to shift the gate valve nuts. Band sawed the sides and chain drilled the two angles in a 1/2" thick piece of steel that enabled me to get in with a hammer. I don't know the correct name for the through-pipe that the motor connects to but I got it off. It was 26/1/07 when I felt I had no choice but to get someone in quickly with a poor circulation problem and a large organization said yes. After a couple of hours of scratching his head, I had to instruct him to change the pump in the end. Amongst other things, I told him things like gate valves were never set fully open; just a half-turn back. He decided that one gate valve was not fully open at all and all but screwed the head of it! He had not cleaned up the gate valve surfaces of the original fiber washers at all and about half of each was still there. The rubber washers he stuck in were squashed paper-thin in places but it fixed the fault. He didn't seem to comprehend that.
I don't like things I don't understand so I rooted out the original pump (This is the Grundfos 18/60-130 of 1983-4 vintage) which I vaguely remembered taking apart and there were some loose bits in the impeller and concluded that a foreign body had got in somehow. With new-found ideas, I tested it's capacitor labelled 2.5uF +/- 5% and it was down to 1.95uF so that was quite probably the original fault. Some options have opened up with a proven 2.48uF capacitor out of the useless motor to hand, but not on sunny days.
Johntheo5, I have read your previous mail several times and I don't fully comprehend it. It is a fact that on one occasion of the trials I had the UPSO15-60 CESA02 motor in and no resulting circulation at all. The motor had water in it (repeated venting on it's screw) but I didn't even have the hot water circuit working. There is a vent after the HW control valve effectively above and venting the HW tank.
The vent is the expansion pipe back to the header tank, straight up through the airing cupboard. That tees of horizontally, then down 90 degrees to the pump on a short bit of 3/4" bent pipe with both control valves (HW & CH) within a foot after the motor.
 
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Is your system OK now that the pump isolating valves are fully open and what pump did you or your plumber install?, Your 1983/84 pump is probably a UPS 15 60 130 and not a 18 60 130 which I've never heard of, can you post a photo of it's label?.
 
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Ah, not old enough? There are no records of it anywhere. The stamped in bits read Model:A and NoD419. I assume it was scrapped as a size in favour of the 15 60 or the 20 60.
You are reading my last post wrong. The gate valves have always been fully open less a half turn or so. I felt I needed to put some history into the story and why I don't want/let anybody else in. The air cupboard was a mess when I got rid of him!
The job has progressed; its just basically a pump decision and refill. The system sits with a gap where the pump should be.
Incidentally, there are loads of motors on offer as 'refurbished" This can only be with a fresh capacitor fitted, no matter how old or worn they may be.
Edited to remove the Emoji
 

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I'm certainly old (too) enough to remember the 80s, as long as its not the 1880s!.

You might just consider installing a new pump from a reputable manufacturer, at least, if further problems, this can be ruled out.

"There is a vent after the HW control valve effectively above and venting the HW tank", that vent should be before the HW cylinder zone valve as it's I presume on the primary circuit, can you post a few photos of the this set up including zone valves.
 

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