ACL Lifestyle Valve switch problem

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I have a system with two circuits operated via two 2 port Lifestyle valves.

The main house circuit works fine via a separate Hive thermostat, the second circuit was an annex with another valve operated via another Hive thermostat.

I noticed the boiler didn't always start when the annex heating was called for, checked the valve to see if switch was the problem and it just disintegrated when I took the cover off.

So my question is can I get a replacement switch for this valve which is the old style ACL Lifestyle 679H308-30L1.

I was trying to avoid a drain down of the system which would normally be required to replace this old style valve.

I saw on Screwfix a Drayton Zone Replacement Valve Actuator which snaps on but unsure if it would fit this type of valve?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-zone-replacement-valve-actuator/76959?tc=OT9
 
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If open vented just bung the F&E tank and put some towels down

Unfortunately it is a unvented Megaflow system so guess that means a full drain...

Didn't really want to do this now we need heating everyday, was wondering if I could do something temporary like this...

As it is a secondary circuit to heat a rarely used annex, I can get heat in there when the main heating on as valve opens okay but boiler stops when main house is up to temperature even is annex isn't as no switch on annex valve to keep boiler running.

I wondered about putting a live connection to boiler from the same supply as to the valve, not a separate live as boiler would run all the time, this way boiler would only get a supple if valve is getting supply.

I am not sure what the problem would be if pump starts before valve is fully open?
Does this make any sense...!

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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Okay so no replies to my question which was a bit complicated maybe...

Perhaps another option for me is to keep the valve open all the time, I understand there is a lock lever on the valve..
Which is the best way to use this option as I have read the valve closes back to normal when powered next time?

So should I disconnect supply to valve motor and engage the manual lock lever until I can replace valve in the spring?
 
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1. You only need to drain down to the level of just below the valve.
2. The locking lever normally doesn't operate the switch which calls for heat. If you can rely on the other (main) circuit to do the calling, and are happy to have the annex heated all the time, then you can do as you suggest.
3. No need to disconnect the supply provided it is all electrically safe. But if you are going to disconnect it, make an accurate diagram of the wiring centre showing ALL wires before disconnecting. Take some photographs as well.
4. When you replace, probably worth replacing the other valve as well if its of a similar age.
 
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1. You only need to drain down to the level of just below the valve.
2. The locking lever normally doesn't operate the switch which calls for heat. If you can rely on the other (main) circuit to do the calling, and are happy to have the annex heated all the time, then you can do as you suggest.
3. No need to disconnect the supply provided it is all electrically safe. But if you are going to disconnect it, make an accurate diagram of the wiring centre showing ALL wires before disconnecting. Take some photographs as well.
4. When you replace, probably worth replacing the other valve as well if its of a similar age.

Thanks for your reply oldbuffer, unfortunately the valve is located almost at floor level on the ground floor so most of system will be drained apart underfloor pipework I guess.
Okay so the locking lever would work if I have annex heating on with main house.

Did you see my earlier question of bypasing the faulty valve switch by supplying the boiler and pump (which I think is an orange cable) directly from the valve motor supply instead of a separate positive feed. So if thermostat calls for annex heat the valve motor would run and also start boiler albeit slightly before valve has fully opened?

Can you see any problem with this?

Thanks again for your help.
 
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You have a pressurized system, just release the pressure and snatch the valve, yes some water will come out but not a lot, just put some towels below the valve, or if it is under the floor just let it go into the solum , you dont need to drain the whole system
 

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I thought unvented had to be done by G3 registered engineers?
 
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It's a heating valve which has gone duff, not the hot water side. The primary side of the unvented cylinder will (possibly) need to be drained for a full drain down, but this is not a G3 issue.
 
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I thought unvented had to be done by G3 registered engineers?
You can get a scenario on an Unvented cylinder if it is using a Y plan, then a 2 port zone valve is used as a safety device on the flow to the cylinder, this valve would have to be changed by a G3 operative , but the ones that control the heating circuits you dont need to be G3
 
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