Advice needed on new Central Heating System

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Hi
Installing a new heating system in a property, 8 radiators, combi boiler, was thinking of using micro bore system, 10mm speedfit pipework and 4 manifolds, got 3 large double rads.. would 10mm be sufficient to feed the large rads...?, only reason for using this that its cheaper and quicker, always used 15mm in the past.. any recommendations..?
 
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10mm will be fine, but as you know 15mm is better although a little more time consuming
 
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do it properly and use 22mm as main runs with 15mm to rads ,you will save yourself no end of problems as the system gets older and requires maintence

do the job properly and do it once ,skimping on the basics will cause problems in future just read on the forums how many problems microbore has ,developers favourite just to save a few quid.
 
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reasons not to like it :
1) 10mm microbore pipe and fittings can work out dearer than 15mm. No money to be saved at all in my experience.

2) if you bring it straight up from the floor to the rad valves it is more susceptible to hoover damage and doesn't look as neat as 15mm tubing.

3) It can sludge up more quickly on a dirty system than 15mm.

4) There is a common belief that it is an inferior alternative to 15mm- that it must have been used as it was cheaper and quicker to install than 'normal' pipe.Hence why there are always people asking questions on here about it- e.g.this one.

Good points:

1) It does save a bit of time on installation as it's easier to thread through joists and means less notching or drilling.

2) It can be brought from behind radiators in plasterboard walls for a neater finish which also protects it from accidental damage.

3) Your system will heat up marginally quicker as there is a smaller voulme of system water.
 
D

dextrous

As you're using speedfit pipework, why not use 15mm with 15mm copper tails to the rads?
 
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As you're using speedfit pipework, why not use 15mm with 15mm copper tails to the rads?

yes, and the reason for using 10mm is that im taking the pipework out of wallplates and straight into the rads, also the pipework will fit neatly into the plaster.. advantage is that the only fittings i need is a couple of coils and 4 manifolds and some trv's, and the biggest advantage of it all is the labour, can do it all in half a day, should be okay i think, the only thing on my mind was that the system will take longer to heat up due to the flow on a 10mm...
 
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Brilliant way of doing it, down the wall and out pulled to each rad tail with a drayton elbow.(dont bother with the boxes waste of money.)

Be ware the rocket manifolds are crap, better off using reducing tee's.
Beware of the sizing of the doubles 10mm doesnt always get you the heat regardless of what the calculation s say,primarily because 10mm speedfit is actually about 5-6mm ID.

Plaster over when heatings cold,you'll be surprised at amount of creep when warm.

protect from the wall with hair felt and cover the front in foil tape,helps the nerds that like stud detectors. Saves the embaressment of plonkers like me when you drill one(2mm from greatness,3 hours of pain).

Welcome to a site bashers way of plumbing.
 
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Brilliant way of doing it, down the wall and out pulled to each rad tail with a drayton elbow.(dont bother with the boxes waste of money.)

Be ware the rocket manifolds are crap, better off using reducing tee's.
Beware of the sizing of the doubles 10mm doesnt always get you the heat regardless of what the calculation s say,primarily because 10mm speedfit is actually about 5-6mm ID.

Plaster over when heatings cold,you'll be surprised at amount of creep when warm.

protect from the wall with hair felt and cover the front in foil tape,helps the nerds that like stud detectors. Saves the embaressment of plonkers like me when you drill one(2mm from greatness,3 hours of pain).

Welcome to a site bashers way of plumbing.

cheers mate, will use 15mm on the large double rads... thought that the flow will be too low for the monster rads...
 

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