Advice on fitting T connector in tight space

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Herefordshire
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United Kingdom
I need to install a T connector off an existing 15mm mains water pipe, access space is severely limited as it is under the 1st floor floorboards and surrounded by a mass of other pipes for central heating etc.

I presumed that I would need to use a compression T as there is likely to be water still in the pipe once it has been drained.
Is this definitely the case or is it possible I will be able to solder one in instead? (It would be very difficult to get spanners onto the nuts with the lack of space)
 
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Use compression.

If access is that tight, then lift enough flooring to create play in the neighbouring pipes, and wedge them far enough away to get spanners on.

Or use push-fit. :idea:
 
Unfortunately all pipes run through the noggins/solid strutting so there is no chance of wedging them away.

Is there no chance I will be able to solder then?
 
Depends on your soldering skills.

If you can't get the pipe clean enough then you risk a poor joint, and redoing that will be about 10 times as hard as cutting enough wood away to move pipes to make room for a compression fitting.

Or, slimline Hep2o fittings are quite slim:

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but the pipe needs to be in good condition.

If access is that hard, how are you going to cut the existing copper? :confused:
 
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If it is too tight to move pipes use a slip tee this slides along pipe but make sure it central when in final position, they are quite dear though. alternative method is to cut out a few inches of pipe and use a normal tee and a little bit of pipe and a slip socket which are cheaper or you can make one yourself by filling out the ridge in the middle with a round file
 
Hi all

Thanks for the replies.

I may pop out and get a slip T at lunchtime to give myself a few options.

I don't want to be stuck with a cut pipe and no way to re-join it at 8:00 tonight!

The pipes are approx 18 years old and relatively clean so I think solder would hold ok, I was more concerned with standing water making it impossible to solder.
 
Get a little bit of hose attach to cut pipe and blow down it to push any standing water out of taps
 
Paul_Thomas said:
The pipes are approx 18 years old and relatively clean so I think solder would hold ok,

Brand new pipes still require cleaning. Relatively clean just won't do...
 
Paul_Thomas said:
I was more concerned with standing water making it impossible to solder.
If it's a heating pipe then drain the heating and open all rad vents.

If it's potable water then open all taps downstairs and suck out the pipework with a wet vac.
 
BoxBasher said:
Paul_Thomas said:
The pipes are approx 18 years old and relatively clean so I think solder would hold ok,

Brand new pipes still require cleaning. Relatively clean just won't do...

I appreciate that, I am planning on cleaning them, I was more remarking on the fact that they are not covered in old solder, paint etc. just general dirt which will come off with wire wool etc.
 
If its the water mains and the water wont stop, push a small amount of bread in either end, solder quickly then open cold taps to dispell the bread. :LOL: Old comanche trick.
 
push fit seems like the easiest way to me, no worries with water being in pipe, pipe doesnt have to be 100% cleaned, no tool's required to fit?

Your choice though you can see what your talking about!

Sam
 
stumpynut said:
If its the water mains and the water wont stop, push a small amount of bread in either end, solder quickly then open cold taps to dispell the bread. :LOL: Old comanche trick.
Never heard this one before - now I can't wait to try it. :D
 
Thanks all for your replies.

I tackled the job last night and after shutting off the stopcock and draining down the pipes found it quite easy to solder in a standard T connector.
I took the advice and attached a piece of hose onto each end of the pipe after I cut it and blew out the remaining water.
I used a couple of offcuts of plasterboard to protect existing pipes and wires from the heat as well as my head absorbant soldering mat.

Because of the mass of pipes in the area I had to run the new pipe vertical for a couple of inches and then horizointal and back down to the new pipe running into the extension.

Took approx 1 1/2 hours from shutting down stopccock to opening it again (Once pipes had cooled)

I now have mains cold water in my extension ready for the shower room, downstairs WC and a working outside tap again! (Cars finally got washed for the first time in 3 months last night!)
 

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