Advice on moving a radiator.

I

Igorian

I recently removed a downstairs radiator and pipework to allow our plasterer to complete his work and i'm now looking at putting it back. I put service valves on the existing pipework to make it easier to replace the radiator at a later date.

The original plumbing comes through the ceiling from the bedroom above and down the centre of the wall below. I want to move this pipework so that it comes down at the corner. I can then box this in so it looks nice and concealed.

The only problem I have is that I need to cross the joists in the bedroom above (about 4 or 5). The position of the joists, where I need to cut through, is close to a supporting wall (< 200mm), so I am concerned about notching the joist and (I believe) this shouldn't be done because it's too close).

Is is acceptable to drill holes through the centre of the joist and then use some speed fit to connect from the service valves on the existing plumbing to the new pipework I will fit in the corner? I could use copper, but would need to make a number of joints because of the joists, so speedfit would be easier.

I'm no expert, but I think I'm capable of doing this. I'm just concerned over alterations to the integrity of the joists, so looking for any advice please.

Thanks
 
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There are regulations for what you want to do but I don't have them to hand at the minute.

But generally the closer to the end the better
 
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There are regulations for what you want to do but I don't have them to hand at the minute.

But generally the closer to the end the better

No, No, No. The end is the shear point and you don't want to weaken it there. That's why there are guidelines.
 
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Igorian

Thanks for the replies and reference data.

It looks like i'll have to reposition the pipe further away from the wall, which is slightly inconvenient, but not a major issue.

If you were doing it, would you notch and use copper or drill and use speedfit? There's probably no right or wrong answer I guess, so i'm just looking for some opinions
 
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Most decent plumbers would notch and use copper, but if you don't feel comfortable doing that speedfit will be fine. As long as you make sure there are no burs on the pipe and use the inserts appropriately, also make sure there are no sideways forces on the joints and try to pull them apart after assembly to test the grab rings are grabbing.
 
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For full protection, to avoid accidental cuts in pipe if floorboards are sawn, I'd drill and use copper and secure with talon clip over pipe clips.....If notching, mark on the floorboard where the pipes are, unless the floor boards are exposed of course. Plastic and Speedfit are fine too but as Sooey mentions, make sure they are pushed fully home and tight and can't be pulled out
 

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