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Alarm System - 4 Wire Bellbox ???????

Discussion in 'General DIY' started by curtly, 6 Feb 2003.

  1. curtly

    curtly

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    Can anyone give me abit of advice, i've just replaced an old Omnicron 8000 control panel with a new Veritas panel. The bellbox was wired to the old panel by only 4 wires....see below

    Bellbox Omnicron 8000 New Veritas 8
    H+ --------- Bell+ ----------- A
    S ----------- Bell- ------------ B
    H- --------- SCB 0 ----------- D
    R ---------- SCB Rt ---------- C

    When i hook up the new 'Veritas 8' and test the sounder, nothing happens ?!?!?, i've got an extra internal sounder attached and this alarms ok but the external one (or strobe) does nothing.
    Can anyone please help :confused:
     
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  3. AttM

    AttM

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    are you connecting to the SCB connections inside the veritas?
     
  4. curtly

    curtly

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    ah, good point, its a Veritas 8 compact and the wiring diagram says the connections are labeled

    A = SAB Positive Supply
    B = SAB Bell switched negative
    C = SAB Negative tamper return
    D = SAB Negative suppl
    S = SAB Strobe switched negative

    these are the ones i'm looking at ........but there's a couple more connections, one's SW+ which is labeled switched positive and a pair are the tamper circuit.

    These are the coonections from the old control pad which worked

    Bellbox Omnicron 8000
    H+ ----------- Bell+
    S ------------- Bell-
    H- ------------ SCB 0
    R ------------- SCB Rt

    Any help you can give would be really appreciated :)
     
  5. breezer

    breezer

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    it should be

    Bell...................Veritas 8
    H+.....................A
    S.......................B
    H-......................D
    R.......................C

    as for the strobe I should connect its red wire to A and its black wire to B

    (this way the strobe will stop when the bell stops, this is done so that a potential burglar does not know that your alarm has gone off and no one has been in to check.as given away by the fact that the strobe is still flashing)

    If you have no tampers then "link out" the tamper connection pair in the panel and leave the switched posative alone

    The technical bit (for those who want to know)

    a burglar alarm runs on 12volts, so.........

    The external bell has a battery in it to run it should the cable to it be cut or damaged. To charge it it requires 12 volts

    H+ is posative 12 volts, H- is negative 12 volts

    as each device requires 12 volts to operate, being as there are 12 volts now at the bell the internal connections of the "bell" have the the posative already connected, so when 12volts negative is applied to S (in this case) the bell will operate as it now has both posative and negative 12 volts.

    To tell the alarm panel that the bell is still there it sends negative 12 volts down "R" (in this case) It will only do this when the bell is fixed to the wall and its cover is secure. This is because in doing so a microswitch (or two) is now closed and is able to send 12 volts negative to the panel

    (Edited by breezer to add)

    H stands for Hold off
    S stands for Switched
    R stands for Return

    (the above, and this note)

    You may also want the technical manual (pdf format) which is at

    http://www.mas-uk.co.uk/v8c8r8installtion.pdf
     
  6. curtly

    curtly

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    :LOL:
    Thats superb breezer, couldn't for the life of me work out why there was only 4 wires but this explains it all, and it seems sensible as well. I've actually got the manual but your 'laymans' terms are far better and i actually understand the entire system now. I'll be up bright and early tomorrow to sort it, cheers again.
     
  7. breezer

    breezer

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    :oops: (thats me, blushing ) glad to help
     
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  9. curtly

    curtly

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    :confused:
    Breeze, any ideas????
    I checked out your recommendations which were actually how i'd already wired them up. I took the bellbox cover off and the ext (& internal) sirens both sounded, yes !!!!! so at the least the siren isn't knackered !!!!. In a full alarm situation the internal siren (wired to Bell+/-, the same as the ext one) sounds but the ext one doesn't, weird !!!!!
    Any reasoning would be most appreciated.
    Does anyone know what a EOL is ???? is it some form of trigger that is needed to set off the ext siren ??????
     
  10. breezer

    breezer

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    EOL stands for end of line. (usualy a resistor) try setting it off again , with your internal sounder disconnected.

    You could also try putting the the wire you have on "B" onto "D" this will make your siren operate striat away (just to check the siren)
     
  11. curtly

    curtly

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    uuummm, head scratching time. I disconnected the internal siren from one of the terminals but the external siren still didn't sound on testing???
    I then wired B (switched neg) to D (perm neg) but nothing happened, i got a multimeter out and A&D definitely give a 12v circuit . When i take off the bellbox cover the ext siren goes off so thats ok. Looks like there is a problem with way the SCB isn't interpreting the signal properly, i think something might have blown because i tested the outputs from the old control panel and they are exactly the same as the new.
     
  12. breezer

    breezer

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  13. curtly

    curtly

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    Yeah i'll get up my ladders and give it a try......

    I'm really tempted to replace the whole bellbox, for an extra twelve quid over the siren i could get this one......
    [url]http://www.powersaver.co.uk/security/odyssey1e.htm
    [/url]
    Its geared up for the veritas as well. Could you see any problem with diverting the strobe wires on this new bellbox straight to the perm+ and switched- contacts because i've only got a 4wire feed to the outside of the house and it would be a major problem having to re-wire it as well.

    Thanks again for the help.
     
  14. breezer

    breezer

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    Not really. go for it!
     
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