Alpha Boiler problems

[wendiff]

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can give me some advice.

I am having problems with an Alpha 240/280E boiler. I am desperate to conserve the boiler for 6 months as I am about to refurbish and relocate my kitchen and fitting one just now would cause havoc and high costs.

I have read the existing postings about the diverter valve and the problem may this part (it takes time and luck to get warm water and the rads heat up when hot water is selected unless I turn each radiator off) however I beleive I must have another problem as although the diverter switch appears to come out fully a few seconds after the boiler has fired up it turns off for an equal or longer time. I have also noticed the pressure is continually above the green limit but however much I bleed radiators it just returns back again.

I would be grateful for any ideas as I don't want to buy a new diverter valve (£205+) if I will then need part after part.

Thanks a lot to anyone who can Wendi

 

[wendiff]

CORRECTION TO MY PREVIOUS POSTING ABOVE

I have just checked and my boiler is an Alpha 240P and not 240/280E.

Sorry.

 

[corgiman]

sounds to like you have more than one problem with this here boiler

1 if the rads are gettting warm when you run a tap you need a new diverter valve, it is that simple

2 if the pressure keeps creeping up you have either left the filling loop open slightly or your plated DHW hest exhanger has a hole in it.

 

[ChrisR]

Yer but no but..

new diverter valve, or refurbish the existing one. With the right kits of bits and some experience, would take an engineer an hour or two.

 

[corgiman]

each to his own

half hour to forty minutes to change the valve, hour or two to refurb it



probably as broad as it is long

 

[Agile]

Whilst I would replace the diaphragm and might try chemically cleaning the rear part I would only fit a new valve for a client.

Because of the time taken it would be the same amount for the client to pay and with a new valve its guaranteed.

Anyone who wants to charge you for two hours work to refurbish it is lining his pocket whilst leaving you with a valve thats still 10 years old!

Tony

 

[gas4you]

Oh no, I can sense another argument brewing now Paul you out there

 

[wendiff]

Thanks guys for speed and postings.

I've checked the loop which appears to be closed and pressure is always steady at just over 2. The boiler fires up but the water does not get very hot anymore and the boiler cuts out and fires back every couple of minutes.

I have found the diverter called Manifold on eazyparts in 2 parts (DHW Flow Valve and Diverter Valve Assembly) as well as the DHW exchanger all for around £200. A DIY friend was going to fit the Diverter but is fitting the exchanger the "effing adventure" and too difficult for a good DIY?

Thanks again for advice, Wendi

 

[kev25v6]

Thanks guys for speed and postings.

I've checked the loop which appears to be closed and pressure is always steady at just over 2. The boiler fires up but the water does not get very hot anymore and the boiler cuts out and fires back every couple of minutes.

I have found the diverter called Manifold on eazyparts in 2 parts (DHW Flow Valve and Diverter Valve Assembly) as well as the DHW exchanger all for around £200. A DIY friend was going to fit the Diverter but is fitting the exchanger the "effing adventure" and too difficult for a good DIY?

Thanks again for advice, Wendi

I wouldnt reccomend anyone not trained and corgi registered to work on a gas boiler. I know of someone who tried replaceing the thermocouple once on a boiler and left a scew open just a fraction. Later that night when they were in the bathroom running a bath they opened the door and the smeel of gas just hit them. British gas were called out and he said they could have blown the entire row of terrace houses up, just to save a few quid on boiler repairs.

 

[Paul Barker]

Oh no, I can sense another argument brewing now Paul you out there

Lurking quietly, sick of the repetitiveness of this question.

 

[ChrisR]

Well if you're prepared to change the diaphragm, = rubbers and seals, why not the back end too? Just more rubbery bits really. It's not like 10 year old brass goes rusty.

Once you have the thing out, it's only an extra, what, half an hour?
The seal kit is something like £40, whereas the whole alpha diverter (not an ezypart "pattern" spare) rejoices in an rrp of £400.79, which many repairer companies will charge you, plus the time to go and get it.

A normal diverter I wouldn't bother to refurb, but this one is perhaps a bit broader than it is long!

 

[wendiff]

Thanks again, didn't realise there was a gas element as previous postings said a diverter valve could be fitted by a good DIY.

Thanks

 

[ChrisR]

didn't realise there was a gas element

...there isn't!

 

[corgiman]

Thanks again, didn't realise there was a gas element as previous postings said a diverter valve could be fitted by a good DIY.

Thanks

Does it make it easier moving the gas valve chris?

I really cannot remember but other than that no gas at all

 

[Paul Barker]

You can do this job without removing gas valve.

It's not a mistery, it's a 100% successful job because of the completeness of the serivce kits. Some diverter valve service kits are rubbish.

I expect the part is expensive because Alpha have to buy it through the Baxi group. I also expect that if you buy the part directly from Baxi it is cheaper and the very same part.

But hang on I just did a web search and found thie

Alpha

240/280 Diverter Valve £ 49.50

here

I have no idea if they are any good.