Another cooker+hob+hood question

[Manty]

I know there are a lot of these posts lately, sorry to add another but have a couple of questions - sorry also for the long post, will try to be logical with it...

Firstly, in the new extension, its a concrete floor, so the builder has run some new sockets (extending the ring from the old half of the kitchen) in over the ceiling and down the walls. He left a loop of one of the ring cables exposed out of the wall to the side of the cooker with the intention of using it for an FCU for the hood. The circuit then continues down to a double socket right close to where the cooker is going and back up to feed the rest of the extension.

The current cooker is a 3yo power-hungry freestanding one that we've decided (last minute) to replace with seperate hob and single oven.
It runs off a 45amp cooker switch (via a connecting point), on its own circuit - I'm not sure what the ratings of the circuit or the cooker are at the moment but will check when I get home. I'm suspect it's 40amp+ as I specified that several years ago when the cooker circuit was installed.

Reading previous posts, I'm thinking it's better if I get a single oven so I can run it from a 13amp FCU, I can then use the original cooker point to drive the hob (which is likely to be an induction type).

My questions (finally! ) are..

- Is it possible/acceptable to convert a double socket into two FCU's side by side? One to feed the hood, the other to feed the oven? Or...

- Should I convert it to a socket + single FCU for the oven and still use the loop higher up for an FCU for the hood?

- Whether I use the loop or convert the socket, I'll need to chase the feed horizontally across and round a corner to get to the hood, or better to chase down under worktop level, then across and back up the wall directly behind the cooker.. would either be acceptable?

Thanks for any advice, and your patience.

 

[JohnD]

Can you persuade your wife that she'd like a gas hob? They're quicker and more responsive than electric. You can get a Wok burner too!

 

[Manty]

If only!

She prefers electric, bit of a paranoia over gas. Personally I'm not bothered, but what SWMBO says, she gets....

I should add, the reason the loop was placed on the wall to the side and not near where teh cooker hood is going, was because we were originally having an integrated hood and cupboard (FCU was to go inside it), but once again, plans change and its just a standalone hood without cupboard.

 

[JohnD]

- Is it possible/acceptable to convert a double socket into two FCU's side by side? One to feed the hood, the other to feed the oven?

Yes. you want a dual box, which is a bit wider that a double socket, but enables you to fit two accessories into it. You can continue the ring through it. Instead of "ring in==Socket terminals==ring out" you go "ring in===FCU1 terminals===bit of wire==FCU2 terminals===Ring out"

In fact (there are different opinions) i would have a 20A DP switch above the counter, feeding a 13A socket under it for the appliance (whether this is an oven fridge, dishwasher etc). That way it is still easy to unplug the appliance when you come to buy a new one and take the old one to the tip, and you only have one fuse per appliance (which is the ideal number). For the hood I would have an FCU above the counter feeding, through a chased-in cable under the plaster, a flex out up by the hood (a plug would look unsightly).

Some people say it is inconvenient to have the appliance fuse under the counter; but my view is that you only have to replace a cartridge fuse about once every fifty years, and it will be when the appliance has gone faulty, and probably has to be pulled out to be serviced or replaced. I don't know what the MTBF is for kitchen appliances, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was something like twenty years, which is longer than the useful working life.

 

[JohnD]

- Whether I use the loop or convert the socket, I'll need to chase the feed horizontally across and round a corner to get to the hood, or better to chase down under worktop level, then across and back up the wall directly behind the cooker.. would either be acceptable?

That's horrible To simplify: buried cables should be run (by the shortest reasonable route) straight vertically or horizontally between accessories. So it would be best to have a switch above the counter, feeding an outlet directly above (for the hood) or below (for the oven).

The rules are a bit more long and tedious, but that's a good way to do it.

It's very reasonable to run the ring in the kitchen 150mm above the worktop, feeding the numerous sockets, switches and FCUs that you will need (one every 60cm would probably do). That way the cable route is easy to work out, and additions and changes are easy. It is also economical in labour and materials. You will probably be able to tile over the chases if you are worried about the patched plaster.

 

[Manty]

Very informative and very helpful indeed, thanks John.

Regards,
Stuart.