Another MDF painting question...

[GotWood]

Cheers Pigeo85, we have lived without a panel on the bath for about 6 months and I haven't seen any water leave the bath or shower in that time so I figure the risk is small.

Thank you all for you help.

 

[Pigeon85]

No problem, run a bit of silicone along the floor once you have put the panel in that will give a little more protection

 

[opps]

Ahh, missed the "crazing" comment. My mistake, sorry.

I am surprised that there isn't a solution which is both reasonably water resistant and with a matt finish (oil-based matts tend to be more 'satin').

Dead flat oilbased paint is matt but it will yellow at a different rate to the rest of your emulsion.

 

[opps]

I have used OB primer on MDF and finished with WB on many occasions.

Just allow the primer to cure for a couple of days otherwise you might get fish eyes.

Personally I wouldn't use silicone anywhere that I expect to repaint again in the future. CT1, Sikaflex etc would be better as they are paintable.

 

[GotWood]

All good advice, thank you.

I am leaning towards a full oil-based system, finishing with Johnstone's Flat Oil. The areas I am painting will not get any direct sunlight, so I am hoping this reduces the chance of premature yellowing.

 

[opps]

All good advice, thank you.

I am leaning towards a full oil-based system, finishing with Johnstone's Flat Oil. The areas I am painting will not get any direct sunlight, so I am hoping this reduces the chance of premature yellowing.

Direct sunlight stops paint yellowing. It is the absence of light that leads to yellowing

 

[GotWood]

I didn't know that, thank you for correcting me. I may have a chat with the guys at Johnstone's when I pick up the paint later.

 

[opps]

That's why the inside of a painted cupboard will be darker but the exterior white woodwork on a South facing house is never yellow

I guess that technically the UV light bleaches paints but that is desirable when it comes to white (or light coloured) woodwork.

Not wanting to malign the counter staff BUT they seldom have first hand experience of using (a wide range of) products.

I would just stick with the OB primer, possibly an OB UC, and then the WB matt. Whilst I have seen paints craze, I have never had it happen to anything that I have painted.

I would advise that you prime all faces to reduce the risk of warping and apply an extra OB coat to end grains.