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Anyone else tried Concrete Worktops?

Discussion in 'General DIY' started by glock339, 22 Jan 2012.

  1. glock339

    glock339

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    Yeh the 18mm PLY base boards just become part of the counter.

    Yes the edges extend 40mm past the base board. So will be aprox 20mm past the finnished door/drawer fronts.

    If you look at my first pic of the mold I simply screwed a melamine wall onto the side in 2 pieces. Filled bottom piece first making sure to vibrate mold with side of a big orbital sander & tamping the concrete down with a stick. Then put up the 2nd part of wall & repeated process. Make sure to re-enforce the wall very well before vibrating!!!

    There's loads of recipes available on the US websites if you Google them, some recommend using fibers etc but I just used a Portland based cement, sharp sand, plastersicer, and 10mm Pea gravel. 10mm gravel caused me some problems but it was the smallest I could get my hands on at the time. I cant remember my ratios off hand but I get them if you want.
     
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  3. Graemevw

    Graemevw

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    I dont know how expensive it would work out, but small gravel is easily available at aquarium shops. Might need to find their supplier though for reasonable bulk costs.

    Thanks for the answers, the double wall mold for the upstand is obvious now you've said it!

    Any chance of a close up pic before and after any polishing or finishing when you get to that part?
     
  4. glock339

    glock339

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    Yeh I phoned around all of the local builders yards one morning I couldn't get any small gravel so I did consider using fish gravel as I had some in the loft. But I didn't have enough, plus I wanted to get it poured that day so I just used the pea gravel I had in the yard. Caused problems but its doable. I dare say you could order some smaller stuff in advance online though.

    I just done another pour today for the other worktop in the kitchen which is behind the one in the photos and will have the sink set into it. The mix I used was 1 part cement, 2 parts gravel, 3 parts sharp sand and plasticiser as per bottle instructions. Just enough water to make a moist cookie dough consistency.

    I'm just waiting of my diamond pads off fleabay arriving and then I'll polish & try to sort some pics out. Then I just need to find a good black/grey Stain and Sealers for it! ;)
     
  5. Graemevw

    Graemevw

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    Out of interest, why did you opt to stain after rather than use dye in the mix?

    I saw something on youtube not long ago about staining/dying concrete worktops with acids. They did all sorts of colours to end up with a dark green stone looking finish.

    No info about what they were using though.

    Looks really good by they way.
     
  6. RedHerring2

    RedHerring2

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    That's a good point, worth retaining if/ when I try it.
    I think you'd have to mix up sufficient water for the whole mix though, otherwise the shade will vary.
     
  7. Alarm

    Alarm

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    Err nope, thats not how its done.

    Explain how entire walls are coated with colored render?
    Hundreds of meters of pointing?

    All the same shade.
     
  8. Graemevw

    Graemevw

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    Been ages since i used dye, did 120 square meters of patio all pointed (wet and trowel finished) with yellow dyed mix.

    I dont remember doing anything different to the mix other than being more carefull to use the same measurements with each mix.

    Dont remember any issues with shade variation.

    I was a labourer though and just did what my boss told me.

    Again, for future reference, what is the best method to achieve consistancy of shade through various mixes Alarm?

    Or, maybe more to the point, what are the main reasons shade varies (assuming the same cement and sand are used each time).
     
  9. Graemevw

    Graemevw

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    Just re-rad RH2's post, are you saying the dye should be added to the water?

    I dont recall doing it that way, im sure i just threw it in with dryish mix then added water as it mixed till i got the consistancy needed.
     
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  11. Alarm

    Alarm

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    As you say, same sand and cement batches where possible.
    Certainly the dye has to be the same batch.
    Then measuring exactly the same every time. Water, sand,cement, powder dye.

    Mixing I found was the main cause even when using same measurements, through mix is the way I found.
     
  12. Graemevw

    Graemevw

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    So my boss did know what he was doing!
    There's a surprise LOL.
     
  13. Alarm

    Alarm

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    Why I said thats not the way.
     
  14. glock339

    glock339

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    I thought I'd see what the natural light grey colour looked like in the kitchen first, then if I didn't like it I could just stain it. Rather than dying it dark to start with and then not having the option to change or lighten the colour/shade if I fancied it.

    To be honest I'm just experimenting & learning as I go cos it's the first one I've done!
     
  15. Graemevw

    Graemevw

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    Sounds like a perfectly good reason to me.
     
  16. glock339

    glock339

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    Well I finally managed to get some advise on stains & sealers off a lad on a marine fish forum of all places! :LOL: Anyway I'm still waiting on the stains arriving so I thought I'd post a pic of how the polishing went. I'm quite pleased with it & it should look even better once it's all sealed :D

    Just the bare concrete has quite a nice shine to it so far


     
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  17. Hanke

    Hanke

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    Looks very nice and shiny indeed. I'm just wondering how smooth it is, though? Any bumps or cracks?
     
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