BAXI SOLO 3 60 PFL continually relighting

T

tow0917

This has only been happening since builders moved the boiler, and installed two new radiators as part of kitchen extension work.

Everything is ok just after switch-on and the while the water in the system is heating up. However after about 5-10 mins, the boiler repeatedly goes out and then instantly relights again. The fan keeps going. It does this every 10 - 15 seconds. It makes a very loud noise in doing so and frightens Mrs tow. Eventually once the room stat is satisfied, the boiler is able to keep the water hot enough for it to remain satisfied, and the system operates apparently as normal.
Things I have done:

Called out the firm who originally fitted it, who charged me £60 to diagnose a faulty PCB. They then quoted me £285 to supply and fit a new one - I did not accept. Instead I bought a refurbished one for £40 and fitted it myself. Fault still remains.

Cleaned out the system with Fernox sludge remover, and added Fernox inhibitor

Taken cover off pump and cleaned out all the crap.

Eliminated possibility of faulty Drayton motorised valves, by first swapping them over, then taking actuators off and operating the valves manually.

The ordinary and overheat thermostats seem to work normally, as boiler correctly shuts down when I unplug them. Could the "normal" one of these be intermittently open circuiting?

The air pressure switch contact resistance on the normally-open side is about 5 ohms when contacts forced closed by blowing/sucking on one of the tubes. The other contact reads zero ohms when is in the closed position. Could this be the problem?

I was going to buy a new pressure switch, but was talked out of it by the man in the shop who seemed very knowledgeable, but started talking about cleaning the pilot jets and venturis, which I felt was beyond my skill level.

He recommended a freelance heating engineer who is coming next week to have a look, but grateful for any ideas what to try next in the meantime, in case I can fix it myself
 
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This has only been happening since builders moved the boiler, and installed two new radiators as part of kitchen extension work.

get them back to sort it at their expense

if it wasn't right why was it not mentioned at the time before you paid






The air pressure switch contact resistance on the normally-open side is about 5 ohms when contacts forced closed by blowing/sucking on one of the tubes. The other contact reads zero ohms when is in the closed position. Could this be the problem?

could now !! your not supposed to do that

and your in rgi territory

:idea:
 
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Agree with Kev on this one......a little knowledge is dangerous. APS and gas jets are the realm of an RGI and you won't get help to tackle those sort of issues on here
 
T

tow0917

kev and powell

Thanks for your replies. You are quite right, I am not going to do any more to it myself, except this...

The installation manual shows the overheat thermostat sensor additionally fixed to its pipe using a tie-wrap. This tie-wrap was found by me to be missing, and the sensor is just attached to the hw pipe with its own spring clamp. I will replace this tie-wrap and then do no more to it.

The fault did not become apparent to us until some weeks after the builders had gone. We would have had difficulty proving it was they who had caused it. I honestly think it was just coincidence.
 
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Hi We have had this problem every year since our boiler was fitted in 2005
it is caused by a split in the plastic flexable tubing conected to the fan assmbly.
Hope this Helps!
 

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